I have used these type of spring compressors to remove
valve springs. What I don't like in your description
is using copper tubing to hold valve in place. I have
always used cotton rope. I put the piston down near
bottom dead center and feed in thru the spark plug
hole as much rope as possible (obviously leaving some
sticking out). Then rotate the crank pulley to bring
up the piston and compress the rope against the
valves. Then remove the the valve springs. the cotton
rope will not marr the cylinder walls.
John Holliday
67 Fprod street sprite
--- Glen Byrns <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> OK, its not really on an LBC, but I'm hoping the
> list can help.
>
> My daughter's Toyota Tercel has decent compression
> and may live forever, but
> the valve stem oil seals are shot and the oil smoke
> on start-up is getting
> pretty bad. With the rat's nest of smog-related
> tubing and wiring snaking
> all over the carb, I don't want to bother with it if
> I have to pull the head.
> Has anyone else used the tool JC Whitney has, or any
> other method,to remove
> the valve springs with the head on? Of course the
> piston must be at the top
> of the stroke so you don't drop a valve into the
> cylinder, and a piece of
> bent copper tubing inserted through the spark plug
> hole just right can fill
> up most of the space between the piston and the
> valve while the little
> spring tool compresses the spring to get the keepers
> off.
>
> Does this work?? I could probably milk another
> couple of years out of this
> car if I can just change the stem seals. The car
> was free from a friend for
> past mechanical services rendered, but this could be
> its death knell if I
> have to go at the stem seals the conventional way.
> The labor involved would
> exceed the value of the car. Funny in a way, as I
> would view this job on my
> Sprite as a fun few hours on a quiet evening. Of
> course the only wire to MY
> engine is the coil lead, and the only hose brings
> the gas.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Regards,
> Glen Byrns
> '59 Bugeye
>
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