William M Walters wrote:
> Hey listers;
> Well, we finally got the carbs tuned (sort of) and the 1275 runs a lot
> better. Of course we have been reminded that the game is "Chase The
> Problems" when you work on LBCs. :o) We don't mind, we're considering
> it as an exercise in systems learning. By the time we get the thing on
> the road, we should have knowledge of just about every part of the little
> bugger.
> Our new challenge is the clutch. After draining the transmission of a
> witches brew of oil and water (and who knows what else), we replaced the
> oil, but came up a little short of filling it. It was late last night
> and we figured it wouldn't make a lot of difference if it wasn't filled
> to the brim. The trans would not shift into reverse to allow us to back
> out of the garage. I shut down the engine, put it into reverse, then
> started her up. Then backed out to see if the clutch was disengaging at
> all. I could jam it into gear, but not easily. Now our question is,
> "What do we look for to fix this new challenge?" Also, how are we suppose
> to bleed the clutch slave cylinder? There is no nipple to be found.
> Thanks gang,
> "Hardly Able LBC Crew"
> '73 Midget
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
In the drivers footwell at the bottom left, there is a large rubber bung.
Remove it, and you will see the clutch slave cylinder along with the bleed
nipple. This means that you can lie on your chest, operate the nipple spanner
(wrench I think you call it) with one hand, and press the clutch pedal with
the other. :-)!!! The reasons why the clutch is not disengaging could be
multitudinous - the release bearing could be gone, the activating arm pivot
could be worn etc etc. Its an engine out job if you can't solve it by
bleeding.
Regards
Gordon
Watford UK
|