Hi Philip,
Just found your note, too many long nights at work.
I found that the after market pumps work out real good, but you have to install
a regulator in-line to reduce the pressure. It will flood out the carbs by
pushing the needles up off their seats. They are cheep about $12 for a real
good one. I personally like the old SU because I can rebuild them for about
$20 and I like the clicking. It tells me it's working before I start the
car. The other nice thing about the SU is it is a pulse pump and you can draw
through it if it breaks. The after market ones you can't. When it breaks I
just install one under the bonnet and pull petrol right through the old one.
That way I don't have to lay in the street/mud and change it out in the rain as
it always is doing when this happens.
Rick
Philip Hubbard wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Wasn't it just 2 or 3 days ago that I was saying all is well with my fuel
> pump?
>
> Oh well. Got in this morning and something didn't feel right. Drove a
> block and a half and the car stopped. Doh! That's what didn't sound right
> - no fuel pump clicking away.
>
> So, I pushed it back home with the help of a friend on his way to work and
> bought one of those Facet "solid state" jobbies for $50. I liked the price
> next to a low of $110 locally for the SU.
>
> I checked the archives, but didn't find too many specifics of this swap
> which I assume means it's pretty straight forward. Am I right? Anything
> specific to note? Do I really have to drill those extra holes near the
> tank? Anyone ever reuse the original bracket somehow?
>
> My plan is to do the deed Wednesday night so any hints are appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Philip
> 1974 Damask Red Midget - Arioch, Lord of Chaos
> 1960 BRG Bugeye Sprite - First up for restoration
> 1973 Damask Red Midget - Project car for sale
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