Thank you Robert... very comprehensive explanation.
I can tell this is going to be an interesting experience...'-)
Gerard
At 5:18 PM -0500 3/1/00, RBHouston@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 03/01/2000 11:43:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com writes:
>
><< I could use some suggestions from the list regarding shipping a large item.
> I believe it has to go truck freight
>
> I have located a hardtop that interests me in Michigan, and need to figure
> out the best(safest) and most economical way to get it to San Francisco.
>
> What sort of shipping container will I have to have made?
>
> Any suggestions, tips?... anybody making a trip west...'-)
>
> Gerard >>
>Gerard,
>
>I would have replied off list but this may be of passing interest to others
>shipping similar parts.
>
>About the only freight companies that will economically take your shipments
>will be LTL companies..Less Than Truckload...such as Yellow, Consolidated
>(CF), Roadway, etc. Those are the three largest in the catagorie and I would
>use one of them to prevent the shipment being "interlined" from one regional
>carrier to another.
>
>FedEx, UPS, and other small package carriers will not accept it because of
>size. They all have a maximum of 140 inches length and girth + 150 lbs.
>
>Most other trucks you see on the road are usually TL...Truck Load...carriers
>and they will charge you for using the entire trailer.
>
>Don't even think about air freight...figure $1+ per pound...increased as
>"dimensional weight" and similar packaging requirements.
>
>Packaging...you will want to contact a crating company to build a crate on
>top of a 42" pallet to completely enclose the top in 1/4" plywood. After
>wrapping with bubble wrap, dunnage, etc.
>
>Freight Classification...don't have my NMFC book here but it should move as
>something like Automotive Parts NOI...and you will want to declare a value
>equal to replacement cost. All freight is classified and claims are based on
>that classification as well as freight rates.
>
>You can classify this as scrap metal, or scrap plastic and get a better rate,
>but if they break it or lose it, you get paid for scrap...
>
>Estimate the size of you crate and the total weight of crate and top...then
>call one or more of the freight companies (you should get the same price from
>each, suprise?) and get a quote. Have the zip codes ready for origin and
>destination.
>
>My best guess is that it will cost about $100 to crate and $200 to ship.
>Maybe more as you will not have a discount unless you know a company that
>does a lost of shipping and that will do it under their account. Heavy
>shippers easily command a 65% discount in normal rates.
>
>Also, you will most probably have to pay the freight COD or up front as they
>will not want to open an account for one shipment.
>
>If you decide to do this, make sure your name, delivery address, and phone
>number and taped to the top inside, and on all sides of the box outside.
>
>The seller will have to handle much of the logistics of having it crated and
>picked up...and should also mark the outside of the crate...Fragile, Glass,
>Do not stack, TOP FREIGHT ONLY...not that a Teamster can read these, but it
>couldn't hurt.
>
>Finally, you may decide that it will be just as cheap to take a couple of
>days and a week end and drive out there and get it. The Law of Dimenishing
>returns applies to shipping large objects of low value.
>
>By no means do not listen to the guy that says "it should be ok to ship it
>that way"...It WILL be dropped, shoved, pushed, scraped, stood on and
>possibly driven over. Keep all documentation and be prepared to file a claim.
>
>Hope this helps..
>
>Robert Houston...ask me about shipping small stuff next!
G G Gerard Chateauvieux
E A
R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
A A
R G Pixelsmith on Duty
D E
S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
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