Dave,
There is a tapered cylindrical pin (called a cotter pin, but not the type
we usually associate with that name) that passes through the king pin and
locks the fulcrum pin in place. Normally it has a small nut on on the end
that is visible from the underside of the a-arm. If there is a lot of dirt
or grease under there, it may not be immediately visible. Sometime this nut
is missing or sheared off. Removed the nut and drive out this pin before
you attempt to unscrew the fulcrum pin. If you succeed in extracting the
cotter pin, remove the plug with the grease nipple and get yourself a hefty
screwdriver to remove the fulcrum pin. Make sure you use a wide blade and
maintain even steady pressure while unscrewing the pin. This pin is
hardened and brittle, if you attack it the wrong way you can break the slot
and then you're screwed. If there is excessive wear to the a-arm or to the
pin, you may not be able to disassemble the king pin from the a-arm. These
pieces sometimes end up "welded" together from excessive wear and lack of
lubrication. If it turns out that way, start with new a-arms and king pins.
Actually, if you plan to vintage race, you should probably start out with
new anyway. Afterall, the suspension is a major part of your lifeline!
Gerard
At 7:58 PM -0800 2/25/00, David Mumford wrote:
>List-
>
>I am curious about a couple of things regarding a front suspension rebuild.
>I have been looking in the archives, and still can't figure it out, so
>please forgive me if I am asking a stupid question.
>
>I am attempting to completely disassemble the front suspension of a 60
>Bugeye with disc brakes. I seem to be hung up on how to remove the kingpin
>from the A-arm. The lower fulcrum pin does not seem to want to move, but I
>am not sure that I am attacking it correctly. Is there an easy way to do
>this? What am I looking for in terms of wear if things are not obviously
>loose? Also, I am curious to find out what suspension parts are most prone
>to wear, and thus should be checked most carefully. Since the car will
>ultimately be used for vintage racing, I want to make sure that things are
>thoroughly checked and put together correctly. Also, any thoughts on hub
>roller bearings as an important upgrade to the more standard ball bearings?
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Dave Mumford
>60 bugeye
>75 MGB
G G Gerard Chateauvieux
E A
R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
A A
R G Pixelsmith on Duty
D E
S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
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