Hi Bryan,
I'm planning on going the messy chemical route. The rear of the car seems
to have been coated in a thin layer of bondo, so I'm interested to see if
the layer is thin, or worse, thick. However, I know there is a place in
Dublin that does plastic media blasting, so I may see what they will charge
to do it. Thanks for the info!
Greg Gowins
'69 Sprite
Dublin, CA
-----Original Message-----
From owner-spridgets at autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bryan Vandiver
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 9:20 AM
To: cartman@dnai.com; gearyg@email.com
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: A wierd one for ya... (Chock full o' LBC)
When I had my bugeye done, the body shop I used had the entire body dipped
in a
stripping tank, so the complete shell was stripped to bare metal. However,
after
having this done, I don't know if I would recommend this to everyone. The
problem is that the stripping chemicals get into every crack and crevice and
spot welds, and don't necessarily get 'rinsed out' completely after the
process.
I noticed afterwards, that the areas around seams and such started to form
rust,
which don't get addressed during the repainting process. I did a very
through
treatment of 'waxoyl' to address these areas, but I am still finding places
that
I missed.
If you body is in reasonably good condition, I would recommend you look into
have the exterior of the car abrasive blasted. I had a gotten a couple
quotes on
this, and now in retrospect, the price was pretty reasonable. If you have a
lot
of time on your hands, you can also try stripping the outside yourself,
using a
chemical 'aircraft' stripper.While this works pretty well, it can be quite
messy, and the chemicals are pretty 'toxic', and should be done 'outside'.
Also, if you are looking to preserve any original 'factory' crayon marks on
the
body, a body dip is NOT and option.
Regards - Bryan (59-bugeye)
San Jose, CA
>To: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>
>Subject: RE: A wierd one for ya... (Chock full o' LBC)
>Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>X-Originating-IP: 38.11.197.76
>
>Are you sure you want to do the prep work ?? If I remember,
>THAT was/is the problem with my car (all of the wrinkles & scratch lines in
>the bondo & body) not the paint - it still looks
>good. (At least I got good paint !)
>
>Geary Gowins (aka Greg's Dad)
>
>------Original Message------
>From: "Greg Gowins" <cartman@dnai.com>
>To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Sent: February 16, 2000 2:50:04 AM GMT
>Subject: A wierd one for ya... (Chock full o' LBC)
>
>
>
>Here's one for the mechanical engineers on the list. I don't know if
anyone
>has this statistic, but what is the total square footage of the paintable
>surface area of a Sprite? After getting sticker shock on getting quotes on
>having my Sprite stripped to bare metal and painted, I've decided to do
most
>of the prep work myself and have the shop shoot the final layers on. I've
>tried painting one before, and if you've seen my dad's Sprite, you'll know
>why I'm letting a pro do it!!!<grin, sorry, Dad> I'd like to get a handle
>on how much in supplies I'll need based on the surface area. Any ideas?
>
>Greg Gowins (aka Schemp, Cartman, The Great Cornholio, and many other
>pseudonyms)
>'69 Sprite
>Dublin, CA
>
>PS I'm thinking of putting a rare photo of mine on Ebay. It's one of
Zappa
>polishing a gun while driving a Bugeye across the London Bridge that's
about
>to hit a Coors Lite swilling cat and he's being chased by a disbarred witch
>in a Triumph. If figure something like that I should offer to my fellow
>listers first. The market for something like this is pretty limited, say
to
>about six people on this list. Let the bidding begin!
>
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