Jeff,
I can't advise you one way or the other since I have had different experiences
than some other owners.
BUT...in the interests of using bandwidth.
In the early 80's I had 2 Spridgets: a 1960 Bugeye that I restored from
ground-up and a '72 Midget in the same condition.
The Bugeye had a rebuilt 948 bored 40 over and in all other aspects was
rebuilt to original specification. People in the Northeast will verify that
this car was, for all intents and purposes, a "new" car. In traffic and/or in
90 degree temperatures, it was my experience that it would overheat or at
least run 190-195.
The '72 was restored in similar manner to the Bugeye except the motor when
rebuilt was left on std bore. (A mistake but that's not the point here.) This
car always ran around 160 degrees regardless of temp and conditions.
What is the point of all this? When I built my "pink car" (a 1963 HAN-6), my
goal was to combine the best aspects of the early cars and later cars. So
based on personal experience, I installed a crossflow along with the 1275.
Yes, you need all of the parts that Larry mentions, plus of course, a
different thermostat housing. Oh, yes your engine with accommodate everything.
If possible, one consideration you should consider is the "Peter Genovese
crossflow radiator shroud modification". This mod make the crossflow a snap to
R&R.
Pete came up with an improvement which modifies the the top of the crossflow
shroud to make it removable from the sides of the shroud. Then you don't have
to remove the grille and fool with the screws to remove the entire shroud. As
part of the mod, you put studs in the bottom of the crossflow in place of the
bolts. This allows the radiator to be lifted out of the shroud after the opt
is removed. Pete countersinks some flat-head allen screws in the top of the
side of the shroud to secure the top to the sides. If you use black allen
screws, you don't even notice them.
Having said all this, some listers have reported in the past that in their
experience a downflow is every bit as efficient as a crossflow. I have no
reason to question their experience.
One last thing. If you do go ahead with the crossflow, be sure that you rotate
the lower hose clamps so that you can get at them while everything is in
place. It can be easy to overlook this.
Jay Fishbein
PS Do Larry and Sandi compose these messages together? :-)
Larry & Sandi Miller wrote:
Jeff
>
> You need a different set of hoses, the filler tank, and the crossover tube
> that mounts on the steering rack. I would have the downflow recored and
> stick with it.
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