Wow! I got 5 good answers to this question in the hour it took me to go home
and eat lunch. This group is incredible.
Thanks to all. I admit I'm a differential dummy. I've only swapped them
over the years, never cracked one open. It sounds like the best bet is to
go with a 3.9 if I can locate one. The free rotation of the wheel before
the drive shaft begins turning is not what bothers me, its the noticeable
clunk on start up from a stop. Yes, I very carefully checked both U-joints
first before casting the hairy eyeball on the differential. If the clunk is
an easily diagnosed and cheaply repaired problem, then my inclination is to
fix it and make no change in the rear-end ratio until I switch over to a
5sp.
Regards, Glen
Byrns
----- Original Message -----
From <IfixMGs at aol.com>
To: <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu>
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: differentials
> Glen,
> From your prior inputs to the list, it appears that you are
well-versed
> in the Spridget. However, I was wondering, from your "worn diff" thread,
if
> you've had past experience in "differential diagnosis" (pardon the medical
> terminology....)
> Most of the play which results in 1/8 - 1/4 turn of the driveshaft
> before all lash is taken up is due to play in the thrust washers and
pinion
> gear packings. Easily, and inexpensively fixed (even if both pinion gears
are
> worn out, the parts come to less than $80. If only the packing and thrust
> washers are worn, it's under $14...thru Moss or VB) I've written several
> threads on the MGOC MGB and Midget BB (in the archives) and I know there
are
> several others. Cut and paste....
>
>
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-in/soro1?access=10165492207008&page=~mgcars/mem
be
> rs/bbsa/index.html
>
> Mark Childers Union Jack Spares and Repairs VA Beach VA
>
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