On 06/20/99 20:20:04 you wrote:
Hal -
You've been given quite a bit of good information so far, so I won't respond
directly to all of your questions since that would be redundant in many points.
I restored several Spridgets over the years, parted-out others, owned one
drop-dead original Bugeye and was rabid in my quest for information on
Spridgets for a number of years.
The last restoration which I completed, which is certainly my best, was a "kit"
car and was done somewhat backwards. I acquired and assembled all of the parts
BEFORE I bought the car.
For that reason, it provides the "moral-of-the-story" for any "car-in-boxes"
restoration: It is essential that you are intimately familiar with the car and
ALL of its components before you acquire a car that is disassembled/in-boxes.
Since there are two ways to assessing any Spridget, 1) by its components and 2)
by its tub/chassis, it may be sensible in some cases to purchase a car only for
its tub and purchase another only for its parts.
Some cars are too far gone to restore, but are otherwise very original cars
with many original parts and detail items.
Other cars may have little in the way of significant parts but have an above
average tub.
You can always buy/find parts; finding a great tub is rare.
So here goes.
>1. What you paid. Was it too much?
I paid $1,300.00 in 1989 for a barely running but rust-free HAN-6 in northern
Pennsylvania. (Turned-out it was originally a California car.)
I think this price was a bargain. Double-it and it's still a bargain when you
consider the cost of bodywork, cost of NOS parts and the fact that it is very
difficult to duplicate the factory job, i.e. welds, odd small sheet-metal parts
here and there underneath.
> 2. General condition of the car. How much body work was necessary? Did you do
>it yourself or hire someone to do it?
Since the car was a nut and bolt restoration, an extensive amount of work was
necessary. The entire car was disassembled and stripped to bare metal, original
rubber-type materials were reapplied to the wheel wells and underside as well
as interior and car was finish-painted top and bottom prior to reassembly.
While in some cases this can off-handed as a step only necessary for a show
car, it has several practical advantages.
1) Any offending rust was removed and a smooth, durable finish now protects the
underside as well as all other surfaces.
2) The car is dead quiet and solid like a modern 90's car.
Cost? (I would be considered insane if I revealed that number.) I will give one
practical piece of advice. As a rule of thumb, increase the final cost of the
entire project, (that you determine as accurate), by another 20%.
> 4. How much space did you need/have for the project eas it enough? Were
> there any tools that you would not do the job without?
A 1 car garage is adequate, but a two car is comfy and gives you more elbow
room and space for lovely things that make a real difference in the final job
and your sanity.
I would recommend an air compressor and air tools as well as a parts washer and
sand-blasting cabinet. A wire wheel is essential. Also a counter with a metal
work surface and the largest vice that you can get your hands on.
>5. If you were doing it again, what would you look for in a car in boxes?
I would because I think its easier to find one car with a good tub and another
with all of the parts that you need than to find a good tub with all of the
original/essential parts.
However, No matter how good you are at recognizing parts, there is always going
to be something missing that slips your mind. So figure that your purchase
bid/price.
Another important point. Get your hands on a factory parts manual for the car
you will be reassembling. Read that sentence back several times. I cannot
stress the importance of this point enough. If you consider $100.00 too much
for such a manual, find another hobby.
> 6. Would you do it again? >>
That reminds me of the time when my first love asked me that question. I not
only responded in the affirmative when she asked that first time, but I
continue to respond in the affirmative today.
My next restoration was purchased just before I finished the last one. And I
have since acquired yet another.
One last piece of advice. Never rush the project. Anything you short-cut or
rush today, only to get the car completed a week or a month ahead, may/WILL
come back to haunt you in the future.
(In the final days of my HAN-6 restoration, I missed a significant deadline by
only one day, but today that date 6 years ago means NOTHING!)
Twelve months from the completion of the project you may find yourself saying
that you wish you did this or that instead of rushing to get the car done for
September or October or for this show or that or WHATEVER.
Finally, join the clubs. There's AHCUSA, which has an excellent monthly
publication with technical articles on Healey history as well as a very useful
annual resource guide. Also there is the AHCA which also has a monthly
publication. Also there is the AHSTC, AH Sports and Touring Club which is based
in the Pennsylvania, NY, NJ, Washington Area. There are other clubs as well.
(Help me out guys.) All of the clubs have regions and depending upon where you
live, may have have a local chapter in your area.
(Hey Beth, John, Tammy and Bev...damn objective wouldn't you think?)
They are all different, but you have to MEET some owners and SEE some cars.
Everything will not be found in a booook or from one owner.
Well, if you read this whole thing, I give you credit. DAMN! I give a CREDIT
CARD! But seriously. This is a great hobby. Working on the cars is fun. Meeting
others with the same interests is great and you will probably make some great
friends through this hobby.
Jay Fishbein
Wallingford, CT
AN-5 - past (restoration)
AN-5 - past (original)
AN-5 - present/future (assembling parts for resto)
HAN-6- present (restoration)
GAN-8- past (restoration)
Innocenti-S - present (assembling parts for resto)
BN-1 - past - (driver)
BJ-8 - past (original)
(And these aren't/weren't parts cars.)
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