Steve,
As I write this I'm imagining the electrically proficient wringing their
hands waiting for me to step in it. Well, here goes.... The rectifier pack,
bridge, whatever contains the diodes (electrical one-way valves) and is
where you plug in the harness on the alternator. The 2 big spade terminals
and the 1 small are part of the rectifier and it is a part of the
alternator... a component. The rectifiers, if I remember, are quite simple
to install, though the alternator needs to be removed. They will probably
come with little or no warranty and since you have the alternator off and
can get an aletrnator WITH a warranty....... I do wonder the
chicken-and-egg question, though. I'm not sure the loose brown wire would
cause the fusible link to blow, I do think that the diodes are bad because
of the loose wire, though. In other cars, the fusible link "protects" the
alternator. Dunno. I think fixing the loose wire and replacing the
alternator and the fusible link will solve the problem. (rectifiers
typically run $20. ish)
Hope this un-confuses if not helps. Peter C
At 01:05 PM 5/25/99 , Swift Justice wrote:
>
>
>Peter C. wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> Good news! If you remember I suggested that the symptoms were of
>a bad
>> fusible link, but I wasn't sure there is one on a late Midget.... now we
>> know.
>
> It was kind of a hidden connector and dosen't even look like a fusible
link
>(flat four way connector for the brown "hot" wiring) I thought all fusible
>links
>were round and wrapped with tape...
>
>> As I also said, I am worried that the brown wire became disconnected
>> at the fuse box. This would be equivalent to unplugging the alternator (B+)
>> while the car is running which often results in a "blown" rectifier diode
>> in the alternator as indicated by the IGN light staying on with car off
>> (back-feed to light). Suggest a replacement alternator, or at the least a
>> rectifier pack.
>> Pretty straight forward from here.
>
>Peter, please explain the rectifer pack for the electronically challenged.
>Is this
>a separate unit from the alternator? (original stock lucas unit in car, has
>stock
>lucas electronic ignition also) Can the part be bought or alternator rebuilt?
>(don't have my M*ss catalog here with me at the office) I was going to price
>alternators, but my guess is that even the the no name brand Kragen/ Chief
>replacements would be at least $50.
>
>A more complete description of the problem: ignition, oil pressure and parking
>brake (if on) lights will stay on even when car is off and key is out.
>(these are
>all tied intot hte same circuit operating off the ignition swittch, taking a
>feed
>from the starter solenoid, which of course has a direct connection to the
>alternator) When the car is running, all lights are out as normal. Car is
>diesling a bit when shut off, but I think in all our plugging and unplugging
>the
>fuse to the anti run on valve was blown. When we saw the lights stay on Pat
>suggested a feed back problem somewhere, but we had to knock off for the night
>right about then.
>
>Steve.
>--
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