The two bolts you got out are the blind captive nut ones? So the other two are
accessible from both inside the car and underneath, so there is lots of room for
LPS1 or WD 40 and then some heat. If it comes to the worst, you could drill out
the bolt heads from inside the car and then work on the studs and plate on the
bench. And if that won't do it, buy a new plate!
Don't use washers under the wheels. The wheels and studs need the whole surface
of the brake drum to give proper support. That is why wheel spacers are so
expensive. I think Mini Mania and Winner's Circle list them. Go for the minimum
thickness possible for clearance. Of course, with new spring bushings you may
not get any tyre rubbing!
Alan
---------------------- Forwarded by Alan Inglis/BC Research/CA on 05/18/99 09:10
AM ---------------------------
Dave Hiley <dhiley@cadvision.com> on 05/17/99 09:31:53 PM
Please respond to Dave Hiley <dhiley@cadvision.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
cc: (bcc: Alan Inglis/BC Research/CA)
Subject: Rear Spring Removal
Hello Fellow Listers:
The time has come to tackle replacement of the bushings in the rear
springs. I managed to get the rear two bolts on the front attachment plate
out by pouring the heat to them. I seem to recall that maybe these are the
easier ones. Any other advice to get the front two out before I get started?
Also, this is the first time I have had the rear wheels off since I
installed new 185/60 tires on 13x5 rims and I see that there is a very
slight rub on the first spring clamp behind the axle. Is it safe to use
1/16" or 1/8" washers on the studs just to move them out a little or is
there a source for various thicknesses of properly designed spacers? At
what point would I need to consider longer studs?
Many thanks
Dave
'72 Midget MKIII
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