Hey!
I pulled my plugs and took a look at them. They are Champion N 9 and appear
to be a light brown on the tips. Haynes says N 5 was the factory issue and
I have read here that N9YCC is a standard replacement. Is this right?
I think that I'll be off to pick up some new spark plugs today and I'll
attempt to tune up my car. I've never tuned a carb (successfully) before!
The inside of my exhaust pipe is a sooty black. (too rich? but the plugs
say okay? right?) My carbs seem to be out of sync. (with the air filters
on, the rear one has suction at the snorkel, that if blocked causes the car
to stumble; while the other one has almost no noticeable suction and
blocking it (at idle) does nothing)
Haynes states that " ... too rich a mixture will be associated with
'hunting' ". What's 'hunting' in this context? (Let's not start the road
kill thing again!)
The Haynes manual refers to the low tension poles of the coil as sw (primary
coil windings) and cb (coil windings) ! Does this somehow translate to -
and +? The reason that I ask is that I wonder if the white wire going to
the tach is on the proper post. (and does it matter?)
Another slight glitch is that my tach isn't calibrated and I do not have a
tach with my '70's vintage timing light that I have just retrieved from the
deep dark archives. How do I calibrate my tach?
I found this:
>
Remove the tach.
Carefully remove the glass and pull the guts of the tach out of the
metal housing.
Pull the connecting wires through the hole in the dash where the
tach was.
Correctly connect all of the wires back to the tach.
Get a wire with alligator clips on each end.
Connect this wire to a ground on the car and one of the threaded
posts which holds the tach in place.
Start the car with tach in hand and the tach should work.
Now, on the back of the tach you will see a round black plastic
cylinder with a slot for a screw driver on top.
Rotating this potentiometer will adjust the tach.
At idle, set the tach to read 10 to 12.
If you have to have the tach reading exactly right, you will need to
send it to a shop like Palo Alto Speedometer or Nicenger in New
York. Check the List Quest Archives for these guys' addresses.
Good luck and let me know how you came out.
Paul
<
How do you get the glass off? Does it screw off counterclockwise? What
about that rubber between the chrome and the gauge body? Is there some
magic to getting it to let go?
And why 10 or 12? Wouldn't it normally be lower than this at idle? I don't
want to buy one of those hand held tachs, but perhaps a local 'tool lending'
store can lend me one. (You buy it, and bring it back within 72 hours for a
refund. More than 72 hours and it is yours to keep!)
Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
'65 RHD BRG Sprite
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