If the consideration or reasoning for running a higher pressure cap (increase
temperature boiling point) is because the engine seems to run "hot", I would
check/adjust timing and make sure water passages, including the radiator, were
not
clogged or partially blocked. Rust builds up when an engine sits "dry" for
even a
short period of time. PLUS, keep antifreeze/coolant in the radiator at all
times. Not only does it keep our LBC's from freezing, it contain rust
inhibitors. Not to mention it also raises the boiling point.
WFO Herb
Ulix Goettsch wrote:
> The early radiators are just designed for a lower operating pressure. The
> wall thickness of the material is probably thinner, the top tank is
> fairly large and will look like an inflated ballon if you run too much
> pressure.
>
> Ulix
>
> On Mon, 10 May 1999, Gronberg, John wrote:
>
> > Last week I asked a question about the various pressure (radiator caps) used
> > on vertical and cross flow radiators. We all know the early vertical flow
> > radiators used a 7 pound cap and the later vertical flow radiators used a
> > higher capacity cap. Some respondents to my early question indicated the
> > top and bottom tank can actually "bow" out from excess pressure. I don't
> > understand why the vertical flow radiators are more susceptible to this
> > pressure sensitivity? Aren't the horizontal flow radiators susceptible to
> > the same thing? My vertical flow is a soldered unit, the one on my 89
> > Mustang is a "glued" one. How is it that a soldered vertical flow radiator
> > (1965) is more susceptible to pressure that a glued (1998) horizontal flow
> > radiator?
> >
> >
>
> Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|__
> ..............................................(_o____o_)....<_O_____O_/...
> '67 Sprite '74 X1/9
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