Dave:
This assumes, of course, that you have a good MC, wheel cylinders,
calipers, and no leaking connections....
First, attach a small length of appropriately sized clear tubing to your
bleeder screw. This will allow you to direct the fluid into a container
while still observing it for bubbles. No sense in buying any more floor
dry than you have to.
Next, I bleed my '79 Midget right to left, rear to front (furthest from
the master cylinder to the nearest; to wit: RR, LR, RF, LF. I'm
thinking maybe you're using the procedure for re-centering the brake
pressure failure warning switch.
Finally, put a piece of 2x4 under the brake pedal to keep it from
bottoming out. Top the master cylinder. Have the pumper slowly pump the
pedal three times and hold it down (also have them tell you what they're
doing, ie, "One, two, three - holding." Makes it easier.) While the
pedal is being held down, crack the bleeder just a bit (I go maybe a
quarter to a third of a turn) and observe the fluid coming out. Tighten
the bleeder while the fluid is still coming out. Repeat until no air
bubbles are seen in the fluid. After every third round of pedal pumping
on each wheel, top off the MC, and top off when changing to a new wheel.
Slow and easy is the key -- for me, anyway. You may wish to offer a
small sacrifice to MOWOG to ensure success. I understand cats and
Tri***hs are recommended.
Luck!
Rich
Council Bluffs, Iowa
'74.5 RB MGB "Miss Maggie"
'78 Chevy Half-Ton "Waltzin' Matilda" (LBC Support Vehicle)
'79 Midget "Miss Molly"
'86 Ford LTD Crown Victoria "Vicki" (BarcaLounger on Wheels)
richard.arnold@juno.com or rdarnold@neonramp.com
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