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Re: Chemical Stripping; was Midget fender bolts

To: spridgets@autox.team.net
To: racer45@bellsouth.net
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Chemical Stripping; was Midget fender bolts
From: TYPE79@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 14:03:01 -0600 (CST)
Reply-to: TYPE79@ix.netcom.com
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
On 02/05/99 00:41:36 you wrote:
I am going to strip the shell down and get it dipped, then painted...
>Mark Snowdon
>Greensboro NC

Mark,
I would recommend that you do some research before dipping your car. Years ago, 
owners and restorers reported problems with the process.

Since the chemical invades literally every cavity and seam, those chemicals 
must be neutralized and purged 100% before anything else is done, i.e. paint 
and bodywork.

The chassis rails for example will be completly filled with the chemical and 
will need to be drained. Also, if your tub is severely rotted, you may be 
disappointed with how little of it comes out of the tank.

Despite many people's best efforts, the neutraliziing, cleaning and purging 
wasn't always effective and the paint on some cars lifted in sheets after many 
years.

The process may be different today. I haven't heard of, nor do I know of anyone 
who has used the process in recent years, so my comments could be out-of-date.

For the last ground-up that I did, we carefully sandblasted the "interior",  
the bottom and the engine bay of the tub, and then chemcally stripped the 
exterior of the body panels by hand. Messy for sure, but the result was worth 
it.

Just my thoughts. Hope it is of help. Does anyone else have any experience or 
knowledge on today's chemical dipping processes?

Jay Fishbein, CT
AN-5
HAN-6
Innocenti-S


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