Yea, so Frank beat me. I'm one of those guys using the rear generator mount
bolts to hold my motor (in fact it's on it now). Never had a problem and you
can work on everything except the generator, this includes hanging the
transmission although I don't leave it on the the stand long with the trans
hanging on it. It also allows the motor to be rotated 360 degrees so you can
work on top or bottom or whatever except that generator with ease. There is is
a picture of this stand in Vizards book. You build it by first buying a cheap
engine stand (most any will do) then buy a piece of pipe that fits where the
bolt on plate that comes with the stand goes. I use a 2 ft long piece of thick
wall pipe (needs to be this long so you can flip the motor over without hitting
the backing plate, and distributor) Then take a small piece of 1/4" steel plate
and drill two holes for the generator mounting bolts and weld the pipe to this
plate. You need to offset the holes from the pipe about 1" so its easy to bolt
on the motor. Most of these cheap engine stands have holes a pin goes through
to hold the angle of the motor. I replaced this with a 1/2" nut welded to the
top of the stand where the pipe goes through and then use a bolt to lock the
motor at whatever angle I want. All you need is a 5/8" wrench to turn the
bolt. It sure is nice to roll the motor around the shop and have my work bench
clear for tools and parts. My stool is the right height for working on the
motor on the stand and it goes from the cherry picker to the stand and back
with no sweat. Also of note is that the stand will place the motor on my El
Camino's tailgate when I let some air out of the shocks, then just pump them
back up and remove the stand. There is never any lifting by hand except by
that poor kid at the machine shop. This is a very slick stand, for a fat guy
with a compression fracture of T12. Total cost for this setup was around $40
but then I do have a mig welder, if you need someone to weld it up for you, it
will cost more. Good luc
Crash
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