The Geo Metro and the Suzuki Swift shared the same body, but NOT the same
engine. The Metro is a 3-cylinder whereas the Swift is a 4-cylinder. Wouldn't
the radiators also be different? Also, the Swift, I believe, dates back before
the Metro, so there are more options with Swifts.
adrian
Mike Gigante wrote:
> Hmm, such cutting and welding is not necessary for the type I
> have acquired. I purchased the '85 I believe.
>
> I'll drag out all my info and get back to the list.
>
> As I said - apart from a couple of alloy tabs, it can fit directly in place.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Kaplan <rkaplan@us.net>
> To: Scott & Glenda Meyers <autox@earthlink.net>; Larry and Sandi Miller
> <millerls@msn.com>
> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 8:49 PM
> Subject: Re: Suzuki Swift in USA
>
> >
> >>Yes Suzuki sold the Swift in the US; I believe Chevrolet also sold it as
> >their
> >>"Geo?" (memory foggy here...)
> >>
> >>Will the radiator fit without any modification to the location or size of
> >the
> >>inlet and outlet?
> >>
> >>
> >>> >Next step is to use a Suzuki Swift radiator. It is *much* more
> efficient
> >>> >than the old BMC ones. It also has an integral electric fan and is
> small
> >>> >enough to fit in the right place. It is actually a little skinnier than
> >the
> >>> >sprite radiator so you need little tabs (make them yourself out of 25mm
> >>> >x umm alloy flat bar). to mount it. It is efficient enough for full
> race
> >>> >motors and is a *lot* cheaper than the allow race radiators! A$50 from
> a
> >>> wrecker's
> >>> >yard.
> >>
> >
> >
> >In order to install the Geo Metro radiator vertically (at least the one I
> >got out of a 96 metro) you will need to cut channels in to the two front
> >posts. You must also cut a slot into the front cross-member to allow
> >clearance for the bottom hose. An alternative would be to slant the
> >radiator with the top tilted forward. The later Sprites may have more
> >vertical clearance and thus may not require these body mods.
> >
> >I took the cut and fill approach (not for the faint hearted). After
> cutting
> >the channels I welded patches into the cuts to seal off the frame members
> >and cross member (see photo <www.us.net/kaplan/metrorad.htm>). For the
> >cross member, I used a piece of pipe, and angled it as part of the patch.
> >This gave to bottom hose a nice smooth transition up to the radiator.
> >
> > The Geo Metro radiator is mounted to the metro by means of lug holes that
> >are cast directly into the plastic. The two lug holes at the bottom should
> >on no account be cut off as they are cast much closer to the tank than you
> >might expect (trust me on this one). You will need to cut out additional
> >holes in the channels to allow the lugs to clear (I did not have to do this
> >because I cut the lugs off and plugged the two holes I ended up making in
> >the radiator tank with PC-11).
> >
> >I used a hose from a 1986 VW Golf for the top (I happened to have an extra
> >hose from my Golf and it fit perfectly, see photo A mechanical fan is out
> >of the question with this hose, as it will chop it to bits real fast. I
> >used a thermostatically controlled fan (available at Track Auto around here
> >for $75.00 + $15.00 for the thermostat).
> >
> >While this fix is cheaper than many of the after market solutions (cross
> >flow radiators and such) I don't think most people are going to want to
> take
> >this rout due to the cutting and welding required. All I can say is it
> has
> >solved all of my overheating problems.
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >
> >
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