This is a subject that the listers could probably debate endlessly. One
important thing to remember is that, in bodywork, you get what you pay for.
Most people will just roll their eyes when they hear that, but the bottom
line is: if you want to get good value for your money in a bodyshell
restoration then be prepared to roll up your sleeves and spend some time
doing your homework. Having run the local Jag club for several years, I was
used to being called by strangers and asked the same question time and
again: where do I go to get a good paint job?
Now, what some people call a paint job might really mean a full bodyshell
restoration. I ahve never, ever seen a situation where a body was as good
(bad) as expected once the paint was removed. On my own bugeye, I knew I
was buying other people's problems when I bought it. Remember, these cars
were cheap when new, built down to a price. Over the last 40 years they
have fluctuated in value from a high of (?) maybe $10,000 to a low of $0.
My own bugeye has been "restored" body-wise at least three times over the
last forty years. The patching, hammering, and putty-ing was incredible. To
give you an idea, my car had three floors: the original, one spot welded on
top and one spot welded on the bottom.
I have researched and followed the careers of various body men in my area
for the last 15 years. It's a tough business; you survive by adopting one
of the two classic business models: high volume, low profit margin
(insurance work etc., quality is of the "get it out the door variety) and
low volume, high ticket/margin/profit work (classic casr of all
nationalities). The shops trying to do high volume but take on the
occasional Bugeye, E-type, or '65 Mustang are almost certainly a bad choice
unless the owner has a lot of discipline and will power and enjoys working
for no pay.
In my case, I chose the very best restoration shop in the area and then
worked out a deal with them: the work will be performed by the "assistant"
of the owner but under the supervision of the owner, I will supply my own
time to do the "grunt" work (in this case grinding, blasting, sanding
etc.), I agreed to deliver to the a completely naked bodyshell and they
returned me a painted, naked bodyshell. I tracked down and purchased the
replacement body panels (they listed what they needed), I also supplied any
measurements, dimensions, etc. they required. After we had finished hacking
out all the rusted and botched metal on the car I was left with the
following: transmission tunnel, front firewall, frame members in the front
(but not all the way to the rad supports), front inner fenders, rear deck
and rear suspension pick up points; that's it, everything else on the shell
has been replaced or repaired including the complete bonnet.
As I remarked on the list a few months ago, my resto. guys were amazed at
the complexity of the bugeye bodyshell. They are a reputable shop, so they
have stuck to their original price quote. They caught a bit of a break when
I bought the new bonnet, freeing them form trying to repair the old one.
They swear they will never do another bugeye again, insisting that it has
become the most difficult and time consuming project they have ever worked
on.
When all is said and done I will have a close to perfect bodyshell that
will have cost me around $8,000. I know a lot of listers will wonder
whether I have any brains in my head; remember this, if you want to restore
a bugeye bodyshell PROPERLY, $8,000 is probably the minimum you will have
to spend.If you don't believe it check out
http://home.clara.net/standen/chas120.jpg
These "new" shells are being remanufactured in the U.K and cost about
$15,000 not including shipping.
Good luck in your own restoration.
Daniel
AN5 612
HAN8L 40474
|
