The solution for removing my brake switch is as described below. The only
thing I can add is that to get the switch out you do not have to remove
the brake box completely. It looks like you can just loosen the bolts
and have enough clearance. I of course removed all of the bolts. My switch
was all gummed up. I sprayed it with some contact cleaner, worked it in
and out, and the sucker is a good as used. Now I have fixed all of the
electric gremlins in my car. I still have assorted connectors to clean
about the car, but at least the lights light, flash, and blink when they
are suppose to. Thanks for the help. Below is a summary of the info that
I received and thanks to the folks who replied.
Michael Dietsche <mdietsche@yahoo.com>
Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
"Dan Ray" <danray@bluegrass.net>
--
Bill Gilroy
E-mail: wmgilroy@lucent.com
Telephone: 732-957-4775
Fax: 732-957-4775
===========================
'm assuming you have a late-model midget (was it a '77?). On the
driver's side, directly above the clutch & brake pedals, on the engine
bay fierwall. The ignition coil is mounted on top of the brake box
cover. If you find the coil you've found it, unless your car has been
modified somehow. The brake box is right between the steering gear
firewall mount and the wiper motor. You should be able to get at the
cover's screws without having to remove the coil; the coil and cover
come off together. Any grease is fine for the pedal connections - the
pushrod clevis's wrap around the pedal and are secured with a pin. A
little grease on the pin connection should give more life to the
pedal.
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The switch is in the forward end of the pedal box. To test it, both leads
from the switch end in Lucas bullet connectors (a common failure point), so
you can follow the leads from the switch to the harness and use the
connectors as test points. (If you unscrew the plate that the coil is
mounted on, you'll expose the pivot end of the pedals, so you can move the
brake pedal far enough with a screwdriver to test the switch without an
assistant.)
Check the connectors carefully. In my experience these are the most likely
reasons for brake lights failing to light (except for burnt out bulbs).
Wiggle them, clean them, make sure the crimps are tight, etc..
To replace the switch, you have to undo the 8 (!) screws & bolts that
attach the pedal box to the body. (4 of them hide under where the fender
arches over to form the side of the bonnet opening, and are a pain to get
to, so be patient.) Be careful of the line to the oil pressure gauge. It
is held in clips which are held down by the pedal box bolts. Try not to
abuse this line too much. Disconnect the battery ground cable, disconnect
the bullet connectors, and gently lift the front of the pedal box. Be
careful here, as you still have the brake and clutch lines attached to the
master cylinders, so don't abuse these too much either. You can now
unscrew the switch.
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