alan b fisher wrote:
>
> I just got finished installing a master cylinder in my 59 and bled
> the entire system, including the clutch slave. With all air removed
> and a nice full pedal on both clutch and brake I noticed I
> couldn't spin my brake rotor( drivers side). I converted to discs
> also. I figured bad caliper, replaced it with a decent spare and rebled
> system.
> Same problem, then I noticed the rear drums weren't free spinning
> either.
> I took a chance with a master cylinder that appeared ok but never went
> inside.
> My best guess is the return path for the fluid is blocked by the piston
> in the master or a section of bad rubber cup in the bore. Any help or
> best guesses b4 I remove the old master and send off to Apple? If the
> pressure was there all the time wouldn't my brake lites stay on also. I
> don't think they were but plan to check as well.
> Thanx in advance,
> Alan
----
Alan--First thing to check is the freeplay in the brake pushrod at the
m/c. If it is adjusted too long it will push the primary cup past the
compensating port, preventing excess fluid from returning to the
reservoir and causing exactly the problem you describe. To check for
this, open any bleeder. You should get a brief spurt as the pressure
relieves. If you have a mechanically activated brake light switch, it
wouldn't be closed because the pedal is retracting
Joe.
--
==brake cylinders sleeved with brass==
==One-Wire conversions and rebuild "Very funny, Scotty. Now
kits for GM alternators 1963-85== beam down my clothes."
==Quincy, CA==
|