Andre,
Get a 2x4, say two, 2-1/2' long. Using some scrap pieces of various
sized wood, brace the 2x4 against the rear boot 'riser' (don't know name
just off hand). Anyway, you can use the 2x4 to PRY the rack forward (you
need some awesome cleaning and lubing done to it, eh?)
Now, there are several things you want to make sure you do correctly.
One, being the disengaging lever. You'll destroy the rack if you don't
disengage it for it to slide.... but you'll know what I mean (Liv's
bragged about you!). Second, you want to position the small pieces of
wood appropriately, so as to be prying the rack forward, rather than UP,
if you get what I mean. The 2x4, braced against the riser plate behind
the seat, can be pried towards the rear, sliding seat rack forward.
Now, this is what I have always found to work the best, and without
chancing any damage to the seat, or rack. Once out, the rack will need
(obviously) some attention applied to it. Start with small pressure (of
course), but do NOT be suprised if it takes some serious-assed pressure
to commense moving the plate. Also remember, an inch or so (tough)
movement.... put another wood 'spacer' in, THEN continue the pressure.
You want it moving FORWARD, and NOT being pried up.
Hope this helps. If you aren't able to 'envision it', please don't, as I
don't want you to damage anything.
Best of luck!!
Gary
On Sat, 09 Mar 2002 19:26:46 -0500 Andre Rousseau <andrer@mac.com>
writes:
> What's the best way to un-stick the seat rails?
>
> Mine are all the way back and therefore I can't get at the bolt in
> the back
> of the rail to remove the seats.
>
> A.
> --
> Andre Rousseau
> 1968 GT6 MK I - Ottawa
> http://www.justdrive.ca/
> andrer@mac.com
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