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Re: loss of power problem

To: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>,
Subject: Re: loss of power problem
From: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 16:28:40 +0000 (GMT)
It is a 1977 Spitfire 1500 (UK spec), with the standard ignition (not
electronic I don't think).

You mention the choke, that has been playing up a bit recently. 
Sometimes when fully depressed the car will idle at 750rpm, but most of
the time it idles at about 600-650rpm.

The loss of power has only occurred in the past week, it was fine before
then.  I put a new alternator in last weekend, but I don't think that
would have affected it.  I think I might start by replacing the coil as
this is relatively cheap to do and see if that sorts it.

cheers
John

--- Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com> wrote: > 
> 
> What year is the car? What type of ignition?  Generally a hot engine is
> more powerful than a cold one.  The only two things that come to mind
> that
> can affect performance if the engine gets hot would be either fuel or
> ignition.  Fuel problems can pop up with chokes that don't open fully
> or
> start closing when they get too hot (pretty rare) or if the fuel is
> getting
> into a vapor lock situation- electric fuel pumps take care of that one.
> 
> The other more likely problem is ignition.  Electronics hate heat. 
> It's
> their number one enemy.  Coils degrade in heat and start losing output.
>  If
> you have electronic ignition, especially any mounted inside of the
> distributor itself, then it is also susceptible to heat problems.  Most
> electronic supply shops, even Radio Shack, have CO2 or nitrogen gas
> cans-
> your typical canned air used for blowing stuff out of keyboards and
> working
> with electronics.  One of the nice things about the air that comes out
> is
> that it's frigid.  It's darned cold and ideal for spraying on a
> suspicious
> part.  You can cool it down quickly and see if the problem goes away.
> This is usually easier on an object that isn't moving of course. :) 
> You
> might try carrying a can with you and when the power loss problem
> happens,
> pop the hood and spray the inside of the distributor if that is where
> the
> ignition box is (electronic ignition only), or the ignition coil
> itself,
> though that is much harder to cool off due to mass.  
> 
> -Vegaman Dan
> -68 Spitui!
> 
>
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