I did something similar a few years back. I used 6x6 treated timbers. Those
run into $$ fast.
When you get ready to move it you will need to install a heavy pipe between
the two skids to keep them from being pulled together. Plan your move
carefully, it is a lot easier to pull than push so get its new location
right the first time.
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cornerexit
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 5:25 PM
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Building a shed on skids
Hello,
I am looking to build a 12x16 wooden shed on some mostly undeveloped rural
property to store a few tools and such. 200sqft or under gets me into the no
building permits and no taxes if not attached to the ground category. Thus
the 12x16 size. This shed will likely need moved at least once during the
development of the property, across mostly level but not exactly smooth
ground. I will be using the tractor, dozer, or excavator to drag the shed to
its new location. And yes, I'm looking into shipping containers as well, but
at this point leaning towards a wooden shed.
Anyway, I'll be using some type of PT large dimensional lumber for the
skids, say 4x6.
Looking for ideas on how to handle the hook-up for the tow/drag. A chain
will be used from the tractor, but how to attach to the skids?
I was thinking maybe mount some D-rings to the end of two or more of the
skids with lag bolts, but I just don't know if those will handle the stress
without just tearing out the lag bolts.
Or maybe bore an inline hole through all 4 skids and string a cable or chain
through them for the width of the shed/base. The idea would be to hook the
chain from the tractor to the cable/chain on the shed at two places and
start dragging. My concern with this is a hole big enough for a truckers
chain (don't remember the size but that's what we call them on the farm) may
weaken the 4x6 too much?
Any ideas?
Thanks
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