Your idea sounds adequate, but what happens if you decide
to run dust collection, or have a friend over? Maybe I'm just
a power hog, but I think you're going to wish you had plumbed
for 100A in the shop.
Your power tools are going to be all 110V? If you get a 220V
power tool, what happens? Can it plug into the generator
outlet?
I'd also make sure you put in an oversized conduit.
I say all these things from the perspective of someone who
moved into a house with 30 amp service, and when the
electrician put in the 200 amp service, he used very "discreet"
little conduits in the basement. (unfinished basement, looks
didn't matter.)
Trying to add circuits he was supposed to, and "ran out of time"
to do, was misery. We still are missing outlets in a couple of
critical places, and run extension cords across the floor. That's
with having Romex stapled to the joists next to the discreet
little conduits, because it just would not fit, even with lubricant.
Shannah
On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:27 AM, Ian McFetridge
<shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org> wrote:
> Hi gang,
>
> I'm planning to run power to the shop (detached garage) and figured it
> would behoove me to get some input from the Shop-talk list. Our detached
> garage is about 150 feet from the panel in the house and I would like to
> make the run underground. Here are the things I'm doing, if you can think
> of something I'm missing please let me know!
> -- One-call to flag/paint buried obstacles: Done, no obstacles in path.
> -- Pull permit. Not done yet, but will do prior to digging.
> -- Landscaper - will trench 18" down one day, then come back to fill,
> top-dress and seed after inspections.
> -- Electrician - 60A breaker on 200A panel in basement will feed through
> basement wall above ground, then enter conduit down into trench, conduit
> all the way to the garage, then electricity will enter garage above ground
> into a 60A panel. There will be a second conduit containing low-voltage
> cable (RG-6) and Ethernet (Cat-5 I already have, two runs of it). I'm also
> going to have him run a pull string in this conduit, just in case I need to
> run something else in the future.
> -- Generator: I have an 8000/13500W steady/startup generator in the
> garage. My thought is to run it in the garage to power the house when
> needed. I like that this would let me run it away from the house (noise,
> fumes), but also secure it (covered, locked, well ventilated). The
> electrician looked at it and said he could: use an interlock (
> interlockkit.com) at the house panel so power either comes from the street
> or the generator via conductor #2, but not both. Conductor #1 is the line
> from the 60A breaker in the basement panel to the garage main breaker. In
> the garage, conductor #2 connects to a 4-prong 240V receptacle where I
> would plug in the generator. The electrician said he would use a transfer
> switch the garage panel power source between the house (conductor #1) and
> the generator (the 4-prong plug). This method means there are two
> conductor wires in the trench. We looked at the cost of a 3-way switch at
> the house panel using only one conductor line, but that proved to be about
> 3-times as much as just running a second conductor wire.
> In the garage I plan to have a garage door opener, some over head lights on
> the first and 2nd floor, some outdoor floods, a panel TV, and a 20A circuit
> to run one power tool at a time (e.g., table saw). I'm not going to run
> compressed hour in this shop as I find I use the portable compressor only 3
> or 4 times a year.
>
> Any feedback on the wiring, other choices, or nice-to-have's that I might
> be missing would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ian
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