At 04:58 PM 7/4/2007, you wrote:
>The old compressor has a lever on the pressure switch assembly so I
>can switch it on and off and I normally leave it off when I'm not
>in the shop. The new compressor has similar pressure switch but no lever.
Put a 90deg turn ball valve on the tank's outlet. Leave it powered &
pressurized all the time. The compressor & tank shouldn't leak down
at all; you'll run the motor less and consume less power vs letting
it drain down and pumping it up from zero.
>There's no reason to keep it energized and pressurized when I don't need it.
Sure there is, see above. Mine used to have a leak on the pump's
piping, and the hoses, etc usually leak. So it would kick on a
couple times a day. Now with the shut off at the tank, it can sit
unused for 2 weeks, and still be ready to go when I need it. Most
the stuff I do is small, so it lessens wear not having to pump it up
from zero just to inflate tires or dust off metal with the grinder.
>The instructions said to use ISO 100 compressor oil, single weight
>non detergent motor oil (no weight given)
I think anything with pistons and rings should be allowed to
thoroughly break in before using synthetic. It sounds like the
manufacturer thinks 30 weight is appropriate for full temperature
use. Use straight-weight 30 for a while (50+ hours???) Then go
synthetic with the narrowest gap, like 10W30 unless your shop gets
well below freezing, then maybe 5W30.
-Wayne
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