Kent,
There are a number of explanations:
1 As mentioned elsewhere the drive screw on the tool is not the correct one
for the inserts
2 The parts a faulty (has anyone installed any of these?). They should be
heat treated during manufacture to ensure that they are soft enough to
collapse. Or maybe the collapsable section was made too thick. Or the thread
was not formed properly.
3 How does the tool operate during insert setting? Some give a straight
pull, others spin the screw. If it is the latter type, the lubrication of
the inserts and/or drive screw is needed. This should be provided during
manufacture, but you can try lubricating the screw. Oil will work, a high
pressure lubricant (STP) is better.
4 Wrong hole size - there should normally be some clearance between the
insert and the hole
5 Panel too thick
While you are experimenting you can try crunching the inserts 'in air' ie
not in the panel. BE CAREFUL, point it at the floor in case it pops off. If
the inserts won't deform in air, then we can rule out the panel thickness or
hole size being wrong.
Best would be carbon steel, zinc plated parts. But your installation tool
might have trouble pulling them - it depends how powerful it is.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Sullivan" <kentsu@corvairkid.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 1:03 AM
Subject: Tool 1, User 0 ("nut plate" gun)
>
> After one quarter of play has elapsed, the Tool has outscored the User
> one to nothing but the User has called for reinforcements... <g>
>
> I'm trying to use a borrowed tool. It's never been used (so the owner
> isn't of much assistance) and the owner's manual is missing. I may get
> some terms wrong as a result...
>
> The tool is basically a pop rivet gun but is used to install "nut
> plates". The box it came in is marked "Revere". The nut plates are
> threaded aluminum cylinders with a shoulder/collar at one end, much like
> a pop rivet. The gun has a selection of "mandrels" that thread into the
> appropriately-sized nut plate.
>
> I want to install these plates in some holes in the body of my '66
> Corvair, specifically at the rear of the car where the engine air
> exhaust grille attaches. This grille is held in with sheet metal screws
> from the factory and, of course, the holes enlarge over time.
>
> So, I chose a nut plate size that was fairly snug in the hole (not sure
> what the O.D. is but the screw one uses after installation is 6/32") and
> loaded the appropriate mandrel into the gun. I screwed a nut plate onto
> the mandrel, shoulder side up/out, inserted the contraption into a hole
> in the car's sheet metal, pulled the trigger, and (drum roll...) the
> mandrel pulled out of the nut plate without scrunching the plate. The
> mandrel basically stripped the soft aluminum threads. I tried again with
> a couple more nut plates and used varying amounts of pressure with the
> gun but no dice. I couldn't get the plate to "fatten" in the hole.
>
> If any of you have used something like this before, I'd appreciate some
> advice.
>
> Related question: Do nut plates come in mild steel? I'd prefer to use
> that material for longevity (of the threads mainly).
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