2 thoughts from and ex-northerner:
1. wait till it's warm out
2. glue up 4x8 x 1 inch sheets of blue board, overlap the seams (total
thickness 2 in, or double whatever thickness you want to work with), cut
them to fit over the walls and ceiling (jam 'em in, so no problem on exiting
the rented space), then bring your own SCUBA set to breathe, since the CO
poisoning from the space heater will be unpleasant (headache, nausea, bad
decisions, vomiting, stupor, coma, death). even with electric heat via the
generator, it's not a pleasant thought.
3. Find a heated garage to rent...it'll be easier!
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Derek Harling
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 9:55 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net; vintage-race@autox.team.net
Subject: Temporary Insulation
I need to do some serious race car fiberglass work but since my "shop"
(garage) is integral with the house the smell and dust would be totally
unacceptable.
To my surprise the local "Stor-It" place does not frown on such work in
any of their units - but of course there is no heat, light, power, water
etc and no insulation - I'm talking Detroit area so winters are quite
cold. I can solve the heat and light with a portable kerosene heater and
a sizable generator I guess but what about insulation? Existing walls
and roof are just galvanized steel paneling. Does the list recommend I
try to install some temporary insulation or what? If so how? I'm
thinking not only off getting working temperature up to 65F for the
actual lay-up process but of keeping it at least 55F for the full resin
cure.
Help please.
Derek
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