hi:
i have been meaning to convey my floor painting experience. now seems as
good a time as ever. on advice from listers, i avoided behr one part
epoxy and bought griggs two part , water based epoxy at $30 / gal. this
gets thinned over 100%
and so is a pretty good value. i chose white and am glad i did.
since my floor is new, the purpose of acid treatment is to
promote adesion ("tooth"). this can also be done by sandblasting or by
using a floor sander. since acid is not
pleasant , i used a floor sander- which also leveled things
out a bit.
i super thinned the first coat of paint (as per the instructions) to
allow penetration into the concrete. i suspect that this was the problem
with the behr paint which is so thick it tends to sit on the surface.
behr's instructions call for no thinning.
so far, so good.
fred zampa
At 05:47 PM 7/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>So the conventional wisdom is that 2 part epoxy is the way to go, and acid
>prepping the surface is also a requirement. Great.
>
>Can one of the resident chemists tell me if these paints rely on their
>adhesion to the concrete or their cohesion to the rest of the paint layer
>for strength?
>
>Specifically, what if I only want to paint half my garage floor at a time?
>This would mean I'd etch up to some point (surely it eats through masking
>tape, any suggestions on building an acid-proof dam?), then paint up to that
>point. Is the paint going to peel up at the edge I leave? It may be years
>before I get motivated enough to paint the other half, so I'd hate to have
>the half I do now look terrible for the next few years. What about the area
>right around my lift columns where I don't want to pour acid and destroy my
>lift?
>
>www.keithka.com
>wondering what that orange thing is in the Seattle sky today
>
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