I have had some experience replacing, and not replacing, old steel brakeline.
As far as whether old brakeline may be trusted, I have run with some very
old line without failure. The only failure I have experienced was with a line
on a 7 or 8 year old Buick, but I think that abrasion rather than corrosion
was the cause. One car which I use frequently for antique events is a 1935 BMW
which was converted to hydraulics long before I acquired it in the mid sixties.
Although I have replaced the flexible lines, I have had no problems with the
steel brake lines which must be over 40 years old.
I have had rustout occur in steel tubing that was used to carry hydraulic
fluid to the level control system on a 1979 Mercedes station wagon. That
may be relevant or maybe not. This tubing is very much like brake line.
Of course you should also bear in mind that 5 out of 6 people who have played
it will vouch for the fact that Russian Roulette is perfectly safe, too. I
would certainly change steel tubing on a car that was going to be driven hard
or far.
I have successfully replaced the lines on other cars, most recently a '67
Olds Cutlass. I found it not too difficult to make up my own replacement
lines from standard made-up lengths. To do this I measured the old lines,
and bought the next longer length of made-up line. I bent the new stuff to
match the old, and trimmed off the excess. I then put the trimmed off flare
fitting on the new piece and used a double flaring tool to attach it.
I wouldn't worry about getting stainless. Even Rolls-Royce and Mercedes use
common steel line, so it must be good enough to get by on. Also, stainless
is very difficult to form. If you are making up your own lines you want
material that is easily bent and flared.
The tools you need are not terribly expensive.
First. you need a tubing cutter. Do not use a saw. You want no residue or
metal sawdust, and the double flaring tool will not work well unless the
tubing is cut perfectly square. This is not an expensive tool. Probably
under $10. You don't need anything fancy. You can get this at any auto
parts store, Sears, or even Wal-Mart.
Next you need a tubing bender. I have tried several types and found that
one of the best was also one of the cheapest. This was one I bought from
Harbor Freight for less than $10. I had the least success with the kind
that looks like a long spring which slides over the tubing.
Finally you need a double flaring tool. Since you are dealing with 30
year old lines you do not want the kind that makes "bubble flares" which
are relatively new. You just need a plain Vanilla double flaring tool.
Almost any auto parts store can get you one of these. This will be the
most expensive tool, costing very roughly $40-$60.
Best of luck.
Herb Tobin, MA
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