At 12:43 AM 6/26/96 -0400, Elan26@aol.com wrote:
>Shop Talkers:
>
>So now, I have a rustier truck with large patches of bare metal some of which
>is rusty, some of which is just bare. The local paint shop estimates the job
>at over $3,000. I'm searching for other solutions.
>
There are only 2:
1. pay the $3,000
2. do it yourself
If you choose optoin 2 you'll rapidly find out why option #1 is so high.
You might want to read my article on paint a car - on SOL's tech section
under Morgan
Before, we start with you list, here are some things to consider,
a. do you have a compressor (4hp - 20 gal tank minimumn)?
[$300-$500 depending on the compressor you purchase.]
b. do you have the air tools: a dual action sander [$40],
and a spray gun [$70-$100]
c. do you have the electric tools: 4" grinder (10,000 rpm) [$30-$70},
buffer [$60-$100]
d. Are you planning on doing the entire exterior of the truck?
e. do you have the time? I'm working on painting my Plymouth mini van.
So far I have over 24 hour sanding on it and am not 1/2 what through.
My neighbor painted his 67 Olds Toronado last Xmas. We spent over 5
days just stripping the paint.
f. Can you keep the truck in a garage the entire time?
>After sanding all rust areas with a wire wheel I should:
For sanding the initial paint off, I suggest using a 5" DA sander with 80
grit paper.
For stuborn or awkward places try a knotted wire wheel on the 4" grinder.
>
>1. Spray Extend or Rustmort on the still-rusty areas to neutralize the
oxydation
Once all the paint is off the exterior, you should treat the entire surface
with an
etchant such as DuPont metal conditioner or Ospho. This will kill and
surface rust
and etch the metal so the primer gets a better bite.
This is also the time to do any body work.
>
>2. Paint bare/rusted places with Rust-oleum metal primer.
>or
>3. Don't paint with Rust-Oleum metal primer because it has a fish-oil base
> incompatible with auto paint (in case I have a 'real' paint job done later)
> and besides won't protect against moisture.
DO NOT - DO NOT use Rust-Oleum. The above statement is correct. I normally
use
DuPont's 30s lacquer primer. However, since I can't do the entire van in
one sitting
and can't garage it, I'm trying DuPont's Vera-Prime. It's supposed to be a
polyeurithane and not allow water through. However, I'm getting rust back
up from under
the primer. Haven't had a chance to find out what I'm doing wrong yet. Too
many other irons in the fire.
The lacquer primer will trap moisture and will allow rust to grow under the
paint so
** do not ** drive the truck around in the rain with only the primer on it.
>4. Paint with a heavy duty product called Zero-Rust which both stops
oxydation and
provides a primer base. (and costs a bunch).
This is similar to the vera-prime. It all in the name!
I'd suggest you stay away from Emron or and of the syanide (sp) based hardened
paints. They have their on set of problems. Lacquer is easier to shoot
but more
work than enamel. Do you want a show quality finish? Then you will nead a
base
coat/clear coat job. It doubles the cost of the supplies. I'd recomment an
Acrylic
Enamel. It is pretty durable and cheaper that the base/clear job.
For places like headlight buckets, wheel arches, inside doors, rear quarter
panels,
etc. I use POR-15. It is a rust sealer and inhibitor. You can paint over
it for
color if you want. It is a gloss black, but UV (sunlight) will bleach out
the color
in a hurry. For rust proofing you can't beat it. But it has a price, about
$40 per
quart.
Check out my articles on Rust and Painting for more information and hints.
This is
the basic answer to you questions.
> know what the best way is >to protect my truck.
Lock it in a heated/air conditioned, humidity controlled garage and DON'T
drive it! :)
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (804) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
The one with the most toys, wins!
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