Thanks Wayne for all the info. According to a few others you were right on
with your measurments from memory. I went out and remeasured my original and
it is around 62" from outside to outside of the brake drum face and 56 and a
half from the inner backing plate lip. Anyway, I appreciate all the info and
I will let ya'll know wht i end up with.
Have a good weekend,
Tom in SC
55 2nd TF
97 S-10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Wayne Osborne
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 2:01 PM
To: K. M. Lehmann; Tom C.; Oletrucks
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] going Saturday
Also main thing is made sure it is the correct width. You'll have to move
the leaf spring pads on the rear ends housing and reweld in correct
position,as they are not the correct width to mate to your current springs.
This is a standard task and has to be done on just about every rearend swap
that is done. Most important of course is the wheel mounting surface on the
outside of the brake drums. Is this is to narrow, the inside of the tires
will come in contact with the bed sides unless you get some offset wheels
and the same if to wide. Of course i havent' got mine new rear end under my
truck after the pinion bearing came all apart. Being still out of town, i
seem to recall the measurement being original--approx 62 inches from
outside hub to outside hub---not backing plate. Most folks will measure
between the backing plate not realize that their are different width brake
drums so measure you original outside and compare to the donor. The rear
that is ready at the shop after the rebuild when I get home I seem to
recall measured 60 and 3/4. IT will work as I had enough clearance between
the current setup measured between the inside of the tire and bed side. Of
course if I mismeasured I can get a little narrower tire and problem
solved. Please remember i'm recalling these measurement from memory..
Good luck.. --wayne
At 07:32 AM 11/7/03 -0800, K. M. Lehmann wrote:
>Tom the rear your looking for can be recognized with the wide leaf springs
>and one shock mount going forward and one aft, most good ones had a larger
>pinion shaft and yoke than the standard Chev 10 bolt. The backing plate is
>square and attached with 4 bolts and nuts. The later , after81, looked
>similar but was much lighter duty, had metric wheel studs. I put springs
and
>all in my '54 from a '59 Z28, works nice.
>Good Luck
>Lee
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tom C." <c_tom@bellsouth.net>
>To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 4:05 PM
>Subject: [oletrucks] going Saturday
>
>
>> Well I found a junk yard about 60 miles from me that says they should
have
>a
>> 1970-1981 Camaro rear end for my 55 2nd. They want $150.00 and they will
>> take it out. If they by chance have one out already, is there a way I can
>> tell if it is really from the correct year Camaro that I need? I don't
>want
>> to come home with another rear end I can't use. Any markings or specific
>> measurments?
>> Thanks Tom in SC
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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