I've just been through this process on my '53 Chevy 1/2 ton. I've installed a
10-bolt GM rear end and a Heidt's front IFS. I went with stainless brake lines
and stainless fittings all the way around. However, even using the AN style
stainless fittings, there is need to be able to do both single and double
flares at 37 and 45 degrees respectively. Most typical master cylinders,
proportioning valves, residual valves and most standard rubber brake hoses
require a 45 degree double flare, while the stainless AN fittings require 37
degree single flares. So, many systems will have a combination of 45 and 37
degree flares. One can use stainless lines and all 45 degree fittings, but you
still need to be able to put double 45 degree flares on all lines. Speedway
sells a cheap 37 degree flaring tool that worked fine for my stainless lines.
Snap-on sells a very nice double flaring tool that includes a tubing cutter
with a special blade for stainless lines. Progressive Automotive in Ohio
(ask for Bob) can provide you with all of the fittings, lines, etc. for a
complete job.
***********************************************************************
Jim Wilkerson
***********************************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: John Garton [mailto:jgarton@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 6:40 PM
To: Jim Nordwall; Mark Coopet; oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brakes -
If you are using stainless steel brake tubing, then the flare is 32 degrees and
it is a single flare. Or so I've been told.
John Garton
55 2nd
Jim Nordwall <jimnordwall@yahoo.com> wrote:Yes, there are two different flare
angles. If I
remember right, copper plumbing flares are 30 degrees
and steel lines for brakes are flared at 45 degrees.
Brake lines should also be double flared.
Make sure that when flaring your own lines you use an
automotive flaring tool. Also make sure that any
fittings, such as tees, are for brake lines. I have
also seen cracked fittings.
Jim Nordwall
1950 3100
http://bluetruck.home.mchsi.com
--- Mark Coopet wrote:
> I have one trouble spot - a "T" that splits the
> front end lines which
> keeps leaking, from one side. Now, I have cut and
> flared this line
> several times and still it seems to not fit right. I
> haven't replaced
> the "T" fitting and can see no evident cracks in the
> "T". So the short
> of it is; do I have to replace the "T"? Is my flare
> not matching up with
> the "T" - for that matter, how many types of flares
> are there and if
> there are many, could my flare tool not match that
> which the "T" is
> set-up for?
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
> Mark
> 1952 GMC 3100 1st.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
=====
Jim Nordwall
http://bluetruck.home.mchsi.com
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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