I have a 78 1/2ton from a 6 cyl (3.40:1) under our 49 3100. I don't
recall the width of the 73-->87 rears but the original was 62" mount
surface to mount surface. BTW there is no difference between 6 & 8 cyl
width, however my 77 donor truck with a 8cyl came with a 3.07:1 ratio and
with my 283/Th350 the 6cyl ratio works better.
Before I upgraded our truck I called two yards (San Diego area) and the
front clip from a 73-->87 was going for $225-275 removed and loaded in your
whatever for transport. The state recycling yards are cheaper, especially
if you wait for one of their 1/2 off days, BUT you have to pull it and get
it to and in whatever for transport. They won't allow you to drive in and
pick it up, all they have are carts and two wheel dollies.
I ended up with a whole 77GMC for the labor of removing the 350/TH400 in it
for the owner. The donor is really the way to go since you will have
everything at your disposal (including the hulk when done :) No running
back to yards or parts stores for small brackets, clamps, bushings etc.
I used almost everything off the 77 besides the actual saddle w/sway bar,
power steering box, steering column, steering wheel, 5 steel wheels, brake
booster, master cyl/proportioning valve, shift linkage, complete wiring
harness w/fuse block, light switch, 12v blower motor, visors, and I took
the 3point belts, but haven't replaced the 2 pt I already had in the truck.
I probably used a few other things but can't think of at the moment.
It's always easier to have a complete donor, because those annoying trips
back and forth to the yards and parts stores will also nickel & dime you to
death.
>Is the rear axle from a 76' a good swap for the AD? I have been looking for
>a 9" with disks or s10 10 bolt as I have seen some post about them being good
>candidates. I already have a 12 bolt posi that I may end up using(67' SS
>Chevelle).
>
>You know of any sites with info about using the 76' rear.
I have a pic of the 78 rear before and after on some web pages, just follow
the "ifs your AD" on the left panel at the URL below. Same as any later
rear you put in, the pads need to correctly locate the rear on the springs
(front to back) to center the wheels in the fender opening. The torque tube
rears were mounted differently than later model stuff. I drilled a second
hole in the new pads ($4.50@ from a truck rpr shop) prior to welding them
on the axle. I've been told you can take the rear leaf springs out and turn
them around to effectively accomplish the centering, but I have no personal
experience. Most likely, if they haven't been replaced recently, the
bushings and shackles/bolts will need replacing anyway, so it isn't really
extra work removing the springs. Getting the old bushings out will require
some effort, especially if as in my case they are original.
Again, no matter what rear you choose, new shock mounts will be required. I
used the 78 lower mount points and fabricated some uppers. The 78 had
staggered shocks, meaning one ahead and on behind the axle, so two separate
upper mounts need to be made. I made the mounts to fit within the "C"
channel of the frame, but since it is tapered, they need to be different
widths.
I used the existing E-brake cables attached to the 49 actuator bar. To do
this I used the 49 clevis/pins off the 49 cables but looped the 78 cable
thru the clevis utilizing a "V" type metal channel used on garage door draw
cables, secured via a tiny "U" bolt clamp. The two garage door clamp kits
were less than $5 at the local hardware store. This is much simpler than it
sounds, and I can take a photo if anyone really wants to see it.
"Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie Nelson
http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
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