While on the subject of front motor mounts: On my open driveshaft one-ton,
I was able to significantly reduce driveshaft vibration by shimming the
front motor mount. this matches the angles of the front and center
u-joints. They must match for minimum vibration. This is also true of
one-piece drive shafts. I undid the front motor mount bolts and jacked up
the motor a little. Then with the rear wheel off the ground , I ran the
motor in high gear around the speed where the vibration had been most
annoying. By letting the motor down a little at a time and running the
motor in gear I was able to find the level where the vibration was least.
I put some horseshoe shaped body shims under the mount and tightened it
down. Now I have virtually no vibration at highway speeds.
At 12:33 PM 3/22/02 -0700, Dustin Cross wrote:
>I used a 235 out of a '58 car in my '53 pickup I was able to drill one
>hole in the lip but I think (its been 10 years or so...) that the lip was
>shaped so I couldnt get a second bolt in
>
>Dustin
>
>
>
>
>As I recall, the 216 had a single middle front motor mount that bolts to the
>bottom lip of the timing cover base plate (the cover base plate, bolts to
>the block...it is just a flat plate that holds the front timing cover, and
>has a lip on the bottom)...the bolts go thru the cover plate, thru the motor
>mount, thru the front crossmember, and then the nut and washer.
>
>The bottom lip of the 235 cover plate doesn't have any holes, as apparently
>the TF 235's used two side mounted engine mounts near the front of the block
>(rather than the single center mount the 216 used), so it didn't need the
>holes in the cover plate like the 216 has. So, I think I will either need a
>216 cover plate (assuming it will swap to the 235), or drill the missing
>holes into the 235's lower lip on the cover plate. The holes in the 216
>were squared to accept carriage bolts I think, but I can either file them
>square, or not use carriage bolts.
>
>Rob
>
>My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the "Force." It has a light
>side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Allen Jones" <jonesal@u.washington.edu>
>To: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 9:34 AM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] AD front motor mount question
>
>
> > Not sure that's correct -- might be for a TF 235. I used the stock plate
> > that was in my 50 to bolt in the newer 235/261 -- no mods needed.
> >
> > Allen in Seattle
> > '50 3100
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rob" <a70ragtop@hotmail.com>
> > To: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 8:33 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] AD front motor mount question
> >
> >
> > > When putting a later model Task Force 235 into an Advance Design truck,
>I
> > know
> > > you need to modify the front cover plate to allow the use of the front
> > motor
> > > mount that the AD's used which involves drilling a couple of holes in
>the
> > > lower lip...correct? (TF's used the side mounts at the front I
>believe)?
> > If
> > > so, is there a pattern or template or measurements I can use to figure
>out
> > > where to put the holes so that after the engine is built, it will be
>ready
> > to
> > > drop in an have everything align properly? Can anyone help me out?
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the "Force." It has a
>light
> > > side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
Tom Allen
Seattle, WA
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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