Just my 2 cents. But use those old Sears sockets instead of a piece of
tubing. Usually everyone has the right size for doing the bottom and you
will not lose the needle bearings.
This is how my father showed me to work on these driveshafts. Then if the
socket breaks. Take it back to Sears and you can use a new one the next
time.
Or use Husky (Home Depot), Thorsen (Auto Zone), they are also guaranteed for
life and can be replaced whereever they are sold.
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peters, Jon C" <jpeters@sikorsky.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 6:28 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] U-Joint Disasembly
> NOW, NOW....
> I've broken a cheap vice doing this, on replacement of u-joints on drive
> shafts so a press would be best. The u-joint cross can only come out if
the
> needle bearing cups are removed, period.
>
> Make sure all clips or retainers are removed before attempting this...
> 1. Use a large diameter (bigger than the cup) something; I use a cut down
> thick walled tube to support the area under the yoke, make sure it's long
> enough to allow the cup to fall free.
> 2. Support the other end of the shaft so it sits even.
> Use a smaller than the cup diameter slug (or an impact socket in a pinch)
> about one inch in length on top of the joint cup.
> 3. Apply constant pressure (here's where a press would come in handy) to
> dislodge the cups they are both require to move. Watch carefully it will
> take quite a bit of pressure to get them to move, but once they do; POW
they
> go.
> 4. only apply enough to move the cup out on the down side. There is not
> enough room to push the top cup through so don't try it. Once the cup is
out
> rotate the shaft (upside down) and press the other cup out using the
> universal cross and the slug (that's why I use a slug of metal).
> 5. once both cups are out the cross can be removed from the shaft.
>
> Reinstallation is the reverse of the above with the exception that the
> pressure required will be less and particular attention needs to be paid
to
> the position of the cups before reinstallation of the clips.
>
> Jon P
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Gray [mailto:william.gray@snet.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 6:39 PM
> To: 'Armijo, Manuel L'; AnOld55Truck@aol.com;
> oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] U-Joint Disasembly
>
> I understand there's also a big difference between manual
> labor and
> manuel labor...
>
> Bill Gray
> william.gray@snet.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Armijo,
> Manuel L
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 8:34 AM
> To: 'AnOld55Truck@aol.com'; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] U-Joint Disasembly
>
>
> I never said that!
> "manuel"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AnOld55Truck@aol.com [mailto:AnOld55Truck@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:36 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] U-Joint Disasembly
>
>
> 55 1st series 3100---trying to take my u-joints apart
> for repair.
> Got
>
> the retainer rings out and now I'm stuck. The Manuel says
> to beat them
> out
> through the opposite end. Tried it but no success, they do
> not move.
> Taking a
> better look it seems to be a one piece unit and I can't see
> how I could
> force
> the pin out by pounding on it. If anyone has done this give
> me some
> help. Thanks RON oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks
> built
> between 1941 and 1959 oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM
> trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
> 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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