Why not use the terminal from the proportioning valve and wire it through the
ign.
switch? Run the wire from the terminal to a light somewhere in the truck. Or be
really trick and hook it up to a seat belt buzzer and mount it under the dash
out of
site.
new mexico jim
51 two ton dump
50 ½ ton
Grant Galbraith wrote:
> This points out what I see as a potential problem with putting dual masters on
> our old trucks. I've put one on my '50 even with drums all around. Without a
> warning device you might not know if you blew a rear line as maybe 75% of your
> stopping is done with the front. You might not know until your really need
>them.
> I know someone this happened to, he didn't realize until going down a long
>grade
> towing a trailer. If anyone has figured out how to put in a warning light for
> pressure differential between the front and rear brakes I would be interested
>in
> hearing about it.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> "Lonnie L. Dickey" wrote:
>
> > One other option which I used is to use two single master cylinders. I have
> > disc
> > brakes on all four corners. One ms controls the front brakes and the other
> > does
> > the rear brakes. As of an 'emergency brake', I selected the rear brakes from
> > an
> > Oldsmobile-Toronado/Caddie-Something twins which had a separate and still a
> > fully manual cable ebrake. This gives two separate and complete brake
> > systems
> > and an independent emergency system.
> >
> > I used this format at least in part for later changes. I am interested in
> > making a
> > few runs down the 1320. It's nothing big. Its just a grudge match with a
> > friend
> > building a F*%D pickup. Anyway, I would like to add a 'line lock' and this
> > brake
> > configuration will make it fairly easy to do so.
> >
> > This front/back configuration has already saved me problems. The (new!)
> > rear/right
> > flex line was defective and burst on my drive to the paint and body shop.
> > The front
> > brakes were unaffected and held just fine. I was able to replace the
> > defective part
> > after the drive. I didn't even know of the problem till I parked in the
> > repair stall and
> > saw the fluid drip.
> >
> > Lonnie
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
> > To: Rawlin Blake <blake@nevada.edu>; Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 8:10 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 6 lug disk brakes and dual m/c
> >
> > >
> > > From: Rawlin Blake <blake@nevada.edu>
> > > >You don't need a vacuum booster.
> > > >
> > > >However you DO need a dual master cylinder. I found out why when the
> > > >original master cylinder failed on my 58.
> > >
> > > I second what Rawlin says about needing a dual master cyllinder. My
> > single
> > > m/c barkes went out one me once (once is enough) and I didn't even have a
> > > parking brake. It was Mr. Toad's Wild Ride for a while before I could
> > find
> > > a hill to use to slow me down.
> > >
> > > Get a dual m/c.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Grant S.
> > >
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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