On Mon, 22 Feb 1999 14:59:20 -0600, you wrote:
>I sent this this morning but it did not appear to get through. If this
>comes through twice I apologize and will blame it all on the internet
><grin>
>
>Jeff Nelson
>
>> ----------
>> From: Nelson, Jeff - DTC
>> Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 10:03 AM
>> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Stovebolt/Engine Stand?
>>
>> Well, great minds must work in similar ways. I was pulling my 235 from
>> the frame on Saturday. I also removed the tranny just fine, but when I
>> saw that two of the bolts holding the bell housing to the block were
>> behind the flywheel, I knew it was time to punt. I went back to my
>> manuals and other documentation and sure enough, you DO need to remove
>> the clutch and flywheel before removing the bell housing. The only
>> reason I want the engine on the stand is for safe storage, clean up,
>> repainting, and detailing (adding decals, etc.) while I'm refinishing
>> the frame. Now, since my engine, clutch, and transmission were all
>> rebuilt a short time ago (<1000 miles), I would rather not remove the
>> clutch and flywheel if I don't have to (I have more than enough
>> disassembled pieces in the shop as it is.) As I see it, if I want the
>> engine on a stand, I have several options, but would like to get
>> opinions from other members on these options or hear other options I
>> haven't considered.
>>
>> Option 1: Bite the bullet, remove the clutch and flywheel, remove the
>> bell housing, and mount the engine on the stand the way it is
>> designed. Probably, the simplest and probably the way I will go.
Really not that difficult to do this and sure seems to be preferable to #2 and
3. As memory serves, you do have to be able to rotate the engine to reach all
the bolts, but any flywheel wrench should make that possible).
Anyway, that is the way I would proceed. Only word of caution is to mark the
realtionship between clutch and flywheel. Flywheel to crank will only go one
way (I believe this is true so you don't have to mark their relationship).
Rob
>>
>> Option 2: Extend the top two engine stand mounts by welding on 7" of
>> pipe on each one, run two long bolts through the top two holes of the
>> bell housing, into the block, and attach the bottom two engine stand
>> mounts to the top two bolt holes where the tranny bolts to the bell
>> housing. I am concerned that the weight of the engine might bend the
>> top bolts and maybe crack the thinner bell housing at the tranny
>> attachment points.
>>
>> Option 3: Extend the length of the engine stand about 12". Weld a
>> vertical piece to the front of the stand and bolt the front engine
>> mount to that vertical piece. Attach the back part of the stand to the
>> rear engine mounts.
>>
>> Any opinions on these options or any other options that might work for
>> Paul and I?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jeff Nelson
>> Paducah, KY
>> 1953 3600
>> ----------
>> From: Hudson29@aol.com[SMTP:Hudson29@aol.com]
>> Reply To: Hudson29@aol.com
>> Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 9:12 PM
>> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [oletrucks] Stovebolt/Engine Stand?
>>
>> With predictions of rain for Sunday (just in time to wipe out
>> our local Model
>> T club tour), I thought I would get the 235 that Dave Riffel brought
>> me up on
>> my engine stand and roll it into the shed. I got the trannie off no
>> worries,
>> but the bell housing was a different matter. The darned thing looks
>> like it
>> will only come off AFTER the clutch and flywheel have been removed
>> from the
>> bottom. Can this really be so? I wanted to run the darn thing on the
>> stand,
>> but it looks like this is not possible because of the antique 3 point
>> mounting
>> system. Any ideas? Please e-mail me directly as I am a digester and
>> the next
>> digest will not arrive until Saturday evening.
>>
>> Paul O'Neil, Ye Olde Stamp Maker
>> 1951 Chevrolet 3600 Pickup Project, See it at:
>> The Poor Man's Advanced Design Tech Tips Page
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~conntest47/
>> Fullerton, California USA
>> Hudson29@aol.com
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>> 1959
>>
>>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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