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RE: Tubular rear shocks

To: "'Bob Tescione'" <mogman@rpa.net>, morgans@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Tubular rear shocks
From: "Blake, Lee" <LBlake@Newport.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:57:51 -0800
Bob,
I have a 1960 Plus 4, 4 seater (currently at the end of a year long rebuild)
into which is installed a tubular rear shock conversion kit from Melvyn
Rutter.  The kit included the tubular brace, SPAX adjustable shocks
(G328HL), mounting pins/plates for the rear axles and misc. grade 8 bolts
and hardware to do the installation.

Since I have not yet driven the car....soon, very soon.....can't help with
ride characteristics or handling comments yet.  However, I can give some
installation insight.  Mounting the brace required drilling and notching the
frame right in front of the rear axle: 4 holes per side for the mounting
bolts and a notch on each side to allow clearance for the tubular shock.
I'm counting on the saddle plates that are welded into the inside of the
frame to make up for possible weakening from the notch.  (possible problem
#1)

The installation wasn't hard, but alignment is important since there is
minimal clearance between the brace, the frame, the body and the shock
absorber.  This was manageable since the body was not on the chassis at the
time.  I think it would probably be much more difficult to do the
installation with a body mounted on the chassis.  (possible problem #2)

All that said, once installed and aligned the whole setup feels solid and
looks pretty good.  Looking forward to finding out how it performs.

Lee Blake
'60 Plus 4, 4 seater

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Tescione [mailto:mogman@rpa.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 11:38 AM
To: morgans@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Tubular rear shocks and Negative Camber Plates


Fellow Morganeers:

I think I may have mentioned this in a previous posting, but never saw
much follow up on it. Im considering replacing the lever arm shocks at
the rear of my Mog with a tubular shock conversion. The car is only
driven on the street (and not even that lately).

Is there any reason (other than originality) that I should not consider
this?

Is the tubular support design that is offered inherently stronger than
the lesser expensive and simpler bracketing made of angle irons?

What is the number of the Koni shock that is offered for that rear
Morgan application. It seems I should be able to buy it in the US with
out having to pay for importation to the UK first.

Any of you who have already done this conversion-Do you like it?

Another similar suspension topic: 
Do the zero or negative camber conversions for the front of the Morgan
offer any advantage for street driving?

Thanks for your help and comments.

Bob Tescione
mogman@rpa.net
1951 Plus 4 roadster
Western NY Morgan Owners Group

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