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Re: [Mgs] Sourcing radiator hoses

To: <wkilleffer@epbfi.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Sourcing radiator hoses
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 15:40:01 +0100 HCMxvzaeX92zHtlhiMT28W6EhGD5TbCjOEtOsudBrekC6wFMvagFocnQULVqtr4lZFV7BiCPFduZ9Dm0YLmNTL5kyAuxMb7xqIs=
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References: <1939335366.69443952.1567519548624.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
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Unless you have a radiator cap that has a higher rated pressure than it =
should have, or it is faulty, then the split hose is simply down to poor =
quality.  Nothing to do with air, if you didn't get all of that out and =
coolant was boiling it should simply vent any excess pressure from the =
cap.  According to Clausager the cap was 10lb until 1976, when it became =
13lb.  MGCs had 14lb and V8s 15lb so even those shouldn't cause a =
problem.

You could cause the coolant to boil on a perfect system if the temps =
were very high, and you used the car really hard, but that would show on =
the temp gauge.  However I have found that if the coolant level drops =
for any reason, that DOESN'T show on the gauge.

Getting all the air out should need nothing more than filling the system =
and first engine run with the nose slightly higher than the rear, and =
the heater valve opened.  Once that has percolated round and you allow =
it to cool and top up as necessary, any remaining air should work its =
way into the rad (expansion tank on 77 and later) over the next couple =
of heat/cool cycles (normal driving) where you can keep an eye on level.

However the thermostat can cause a major problem with getting enough =
coolant in.  They should have a vent, which originally consisted of a =
jiggle valve in the outer disc, or a small notch in the edge of the =
opening valve.  But some here in the UK have had neither, and they trap =
a huge amount of air.  I've had to drill a 2mm hole in the outer disc of =
one of mine.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20


  Upon raising the bonnet, I saw evidence of a coolant leak, and then =
found the split place in the upper radiator hose. The car's been sitting =
in my garage ever since as I haven't yet had time to deal with that.


  Is this the fault of a bad hose, or did I fail to get all of the air =
out of the system, or was it just too hot that day to safely be driving =
the car? I'm going to assume that I can still find hoses at NAPA, but =
does anyone have any suggestions about that?
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<HTML><HEAD>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Unless you have a radiator cap that has&nbsp;a =
higher rated=20
pressure than it should have, or it is faulty, then the split hose is =
simply=20
down to poor quality.&nbsp; Nothing to do with air, if you didn't get =
all of=20
that out and coolant was boiling it should simply vent&nbsp;any excess =
pressure=20
from the cap.&nbsp; According to Clausager the cap was 10lb until 1976, =
when it=20
became 13lb.&nbsp; MGCs had 14lb and V8s 15lb so even those shouldn't =
cause a=20
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You could cause the coolant to boil on a perfect =
system if the=20
temps were very high, and you used the car really hard, but that would =
show on=20
the temp gauge.&nbsp; However I have found that if the coolant level =
drops for=20
any reason, that DOESN'T show on the gauge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Getting all the air out should need nothing more =
than filling=20
the system and first engine run with the nose slightly higher than the =
rear, and=20
the heater valve opened.&nbsp; Once that has percolated round and you =
allow it=20
to cool and top up as necessary, any remaining air should work its way =
into the=20
rad (expansion tank on 77 and later) over the next couple of heat/cool =
cycles=20
(normal driving)&nbsp;where you can keep an eye on level.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>However the thermostat can cause a major problem =
with getting=20
enough coolant in.&nbsp; They should have a vent, which originally =
consisted of=20
a jiggle valve in the outer disc, or a small notch in the edge of the =
opening=20
valve.&nbsp; But some here in the UK have had neither, and they trap a =
huge=20
amount of air.&nbsp; I've had to drill a 2mm hole in the outer disc of =
one of=20
mine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><BR=20
  data-mce-bogus=3D"1">&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: #000000; =
FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
  <DIV>Upon raising the bonnet, I saw evidence of a coolant leak, and =
then found=20
  the split place in the upper radiator hose. The car's been sitting in =
my=20
  garage ever since as I haven't yet had time to deal with that.</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></DIV>
  <DIV>Is this the fault of a bad hose, or did I fail to get all of the =
air out=20
  of the system, or was it just too hot that day to safely be driving =
the car?=20
  I'm going to assume that I can still find hoses at NAPA, but does =
anyone have=20
  any suggestions about that?</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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