This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8028686776070287340==
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0019_01D5626D.D96D8B90"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01D5626D.D96D8B90
charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Unless you have a radiator cap that has a higher rated pressure than it =
should have, or it is faulty, then the split hose is simply down to poor =
quality. Nothing to do with air, if you didn't get all of that out and =
coolant was boiling it should simply vent any excess pressure from the =
cap. According to Clausager the cap was 10lb until 1976, when it became =
13lb. MGCs had 14lb and V8s 15lb so even those shouldn't cause a =
problem.
You could cause the coolant to boil on a perfect system if the temps =
were very high, and you used the car really hard, but that would show on =
the temp gauge. However I have found that if the coolant level drops =
for any reason, that DOESN'T show on the gauge.
Getting all the air out should need nothing more than filling the system =
and first engine run with the nose slightly higher than the rear, and =
the heater valve opened. Once that has percolated round and you allow =
it to cool and top up as necessary, any remaining air should work its =
way into the rad (expansion tank on 77 and later) over the next couple =
of heat/cool cycles (normal driving) where you can keep an eye on level.
However the thermostat can cause a major problem with getting enough =
coolant in. They should have a vent, which originally consisted of a =
jiggle valve in the outer disc, or a small notch in the edge of the =
opening valve. But some here in the UK have had neither, and they trap =
a huge amount of air. I've had to drill a 2mm hole in the outer disc of =
one of mine.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
Upon raising the bonnet, I saw evidence of a coolant leak, and then =
found the split place in the upper radiator hose. The car's been sitting =
in my garage ever since as I haven't yet had time to deal with that.
Is this the fault of a bad hose, or did I fail to get all of the air =
out of the system, or was it just too hot that day to safely be driving =
the car? I'm going to assume that I can still find hoses at NAPA, but =
does anyone have any suggestions about that?
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01D5626D.D96D8B90
charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Unless you have a radiator cap that has a =
higher rated=20
pressure than it should have, or it is faulty, then the split hose is =
simply=20
down to poor quality. Nothing to do with air, if you didn't get =
all of=20
that out and coolant was boiling it should simply vent any excess =
pressure=20
from the cap. According to Clausager the cap was 10lb until 1976, =
when it=20
became 13lb. MGCs had 14lb and V8s 15lb so even those shouldn't =
cause a=20
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You could cause the coolant to boil on a perfect =
system if the=20
temps were very high, and you used the car really hard, but that would =
show on=20
the temp gauge. However I have found that if the coolant level =
drops for=20
any reason, that DOESN'T show on the gauge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Getting all the air out should need nothing more =
than filling=20
the system and first engine run with the nose slightly higher than the =
rear, and=20
the heater valve opened. Once that has percolated round and you =
allow it=20
to cool and top up as necessary, any remaining air should work its way =
into the=20
rad (expansion tank on 77 and later) over the next couple of heat/cool =
cycles=20
(normal driving) where you can keep an eye on level.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>However the thermostat can cause a major problem =
with getting=20
enough coolant in. They should have a vent, which originally =
consisted of=20
a jiggle valve in the outer disc, or a small notch in the edge of the =
opening=20
valve. But some here in the UK have had neither, and they trap a =
huge=20
amount of air. I've had to drill a 2mm hole in the outer disc of =
one of=20
mine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><BR=20
data-mce-bogus=3D"1"> </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: #000000; =
FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
<DIV>Upon raising the bonnet, I saw evidence of a coolant leak, and =
then found=20
the split place in the upper radiator hose. The car's been sitting in =
my=20
garage ever since as I haven't yet had time to deal with that.</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></DIV>
<DIV>Is this the fault of a bad hose, or did I fail to get all of the =
air out=20
of the system, or was it just too hot that day to safely be driving =
the car?=20
I'm going to assume that I can still find hoses at NAPA, but does =
anyone have=20
any suggestions about that?</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01D5626D.D96D8B90--
--===============8028686776070287340==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net
--===============8028686776070287340==--
|