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Hi Ron, It is a good time of the year to start this project. Where I a=
m, in CT, no shops seem to want to re-arch. I have heard good things abo=
ut John Twist's work. World Wide Automotive, Peter Caldwell, is preferr=
ed by most in our club. Be sure you need to turn drums-metal removed ca=
n not be replaced, and small ridges are not problems. If drums are score=
d, turning may be needed, but don't rush to do this unless needed. We=
have done this axle work at club tech sessions. This price seems fair e=
nough, though. In another 60,000 miles or so, you will find that thrust =
washer R&R is easily done oneself.
Many prefer the nylon strap rebound straps to rubber. They were not av=
ailable last time I replaced, but I will try them next time. Poly bush=
ings are a nice improvement. Moss used to caution, and may still, that t=
hey add to noise in the cabin. I used them and found no difference insid=
e my GT. Emergency brake cables etc--take plenty of pictures, and be s=
ure to compare to the workshop manuals. These are frequently found scra=
mbled, and I have even seen a car where rear brakes were installed on th=
e wrong side. If the cable moves as smooth as new, OK to use again, but =
if in doubt, buy new, grease it and grease it again before installation.=
It works far better than its reputation, when installed, adjusted and =
maintained. Watch the linkage carefully--the bits are similar in appeara=
nce and easy to get wrong. If they are found to be correct when you disa=
ssemble, you might prick-punch mark them instead of using paint pen or m=
arkers. Enjoy the project.Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Ron King via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my ’71 MGB, and am wor=
king my way from back to front.
=
The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: springs, shocks, brakes and lin=
es, rear end, and some misc. Understand the following are the recommen=
ded ways to go:
<![if !supportLists]>=B7 <![endif]>Springs – send to John =
Twist to have them re-arced
<![if !supportLists]>=B7 <![endif]>Shocks – Isn’t it=
Apple Hydraulics?
<![if !supportLists]>=B7 <![endif]>Brakes and lines – beli=
eve someone once recommended a place to have the drums turned and shoes =
arced, but can’t remember who it was. Anybody? Once pre-work don=
e, I’ll complete the job myself.
<![if !supportLists]>=B7 <![endif]>Rear end – “On th=
e Road Again” is estimating ~$550 to replace all the bearings, gas=
kets, seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring gear: $~300 for=
labor and ~$250 for parts. Looking at the Moss catalog indicates the p=
arts pricing is not that far off. I’ll be removing the entire rea=
r axle assembly and taking the unit to them. This will be my first expe=
rience with that shop, so any comments from others who’ve also use=
d them would be appreciated.
<![if !supportLists]>=B7 <![endif]>Misc – re-bound straps,=
poly bushings, emergency brake cables and linkage, etc. Will do the w=
ork myself
=
Any recommendations, comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly apprec=
iated. Yeah, I know, take lots and lots of pictures!
=
Thanks in advance
Ron King
’71 MGB
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<html><div>Hi Ron,</div><div> It is a good time of the year to sta=
rt this project.</div><div> Where I am, in CT, no shops seem to wa=
nt to re-arch. I have heard good things about John Twist's work.</div><d=
iv> World Wide Automotive, Peter Caldwell, is preferred by most in=
our club.</div><div> Be sure you need to turn drums-metal removed=
can not be replaced, and small ridges are not problems. If drums are sc=
ored, turning may be needed, but don't rush to do this unless needed. &n=
bsp;</div><div> We have done this axle work at club tech sessions.=
This price seems fair enough, though. In another 60,000 miles or so, yo=
u will find that thrust washer R&R is easily done oneself.<br> =
Many prefer the nylon strap rebound straps to rubber. They were not ava=
ilable last time I replaced, but I will try them next time. </div><=
div> Poly bushings are a nice improvement. Moss used to caution, a=
nd may still, that they add to noise in the cabin. I used them and found=
no difference inside my GT. </div><div> Emergency brake cabl=
es etc--take plenty of pictures, and be sure to compare to the workshop =
manuals. These are frequently found scrambled, and I have even see=
n a car where rear brakes were installed on the wrong side. If the cable=
moves as smooth as new, OK to use again, but if in doubt, buy new, grea=
se it and grease it again before installation. It works far better=
than its reputation, when installed, adjusted and maintained. Watch the=
linkage carefully--the bits are similar in appearance and easy to get w=
rong. If they are found to be correct when you disassemble, you might pr=
ick-punch mark them instead of using paint pen or markers.</div><div>&nb=
sp; Enjoy the project.</div><div>Bob</div><div><br>---------- Original M=
essage ----------<br>From: Ron King via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net><b=
r><br></p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal">Started back on the restoration (mostly) of my ’71 MGB=
, and am working my way from back to front.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&n=
bsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">The rear suspension needs to be rebuilt: =
springs, shocks, brakes and lines, rear end, and some misc. =
Understand the following are the recommended ways to go:</p><p class=3D"=
MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2=
;"><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span=
style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times N=
ew Roman';"> </span></sp=
an></span><![endif]>Springs – send to John Twist to have the=
m re-arced</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in=
; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;"><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D"f=
ont-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">·<span sty=
le=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';"> &nbs=
p; </span></span></span><![endif]>Shocks – Isn&r=
squo;t it Apple Hydraulics?</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"te=
xt-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;"><![if !supportLists]>=
;<span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">=
·<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">  =
; </span></span></span><![endif]>Bra=
kes and lines – believe someone once recommended a place to have t=
he drums turned and shoes arced, but can’t remember who it was.&nb=
sp; Anybody? Once pre-work done, I’ll complete the job mysel=
f.</p><p class=3D"MsoListParagraph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-li=
st: l0 level1 lfo2;"><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D"font-fami=
ly: Symbol;"><span style=3D"mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style=3D"fo=
nt: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';"> =
</span></span></span><![endif]>Rear end – “On t=
he Road Again” is estimating ~$550 to replace all the bearings, ga=
skets, seal, thrust washers, and re-setup the pinion/ring gear: $~300 fo=
r labor and ~$250 for parts. Looking at the Moss catalog indicates=
the parts pricing is not that far off. I’ll be removing the=
entire rear axle assembly and taking the unit to them. This will =
be my first experience with that shop, so any comments from others who&r=
squo;ve also used them would be appreciated.</p><p class=3D"MsoListParag=
raph" style=3D"text-indent: -.25in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2;"><![if =
!supportLists]><span style=3D"font-family: Symbol;"><span style=3D"ms=
o-list: Ignore;">·<span style=3D"font: 7.0pt 'Times New Roman';">=
</span></span></span>&l=
t;![endif]>Misc – re-bound straps, poly bushings, emergency bra=
ke cables and linkage, etc. Will do the work myself</p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"> </p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Any recommendations, =
comments, suggestions, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Ye=
ah, I know, take lots and lots of pictures!</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&n=
bsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks in advance</p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">Ron King</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">’71 MGB</p></div></html>
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