Ha, I'm not the one building the engine. But it's just a fact that the
rotating assembly needs to be balanced. If you take weight off the
piston/wristpin/rod assembly, you have to balance that by taking weight off
the crankshaft counterweights. Unless you want to just pile weights on the
external balancer and let the crank whip around viciously.
So my guess, given the innate conservatism of the works engineers, would be
that the internal components stayed the same weight throughout the
production run. But, I haven't looked it up.
So my advice to Lorne would be the same as yours -- research these parts
thoroughly to ensure one isn't putting together an unworkable hybrid.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
on 8/19/13 4:43 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:
> Hmmm,
>
> Maybe you should research the subject.
>
> CR
> On 8/19/2013 6:05 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>> I would expect them to weigh the same, unless the crank changed as well. And
>> then they would need to be matched to the correct crank.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>
>>
>>
>> on 8/19/13 3:11 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson at ccrobins@ktc.com wrote:
>>
>>> This is a good question. When I built the engine in my B, I used HC
>>> pistons and the diagonal split rods in a 18V block, with the '67 stock
>>> cam profile. If I was putting together a hot street engine, I'd check
>>> the weight of the two kinds of rods and go with the lighter ones.
>>>
>>> CR
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/18/2013 5:05 PM, Windows Live Team wrote:
>>>> Hi. I'm going to build a hot street engine for MGBGT. I have a new set
>>>> of
>>>> pistons that fit a 1965 to 1970. My question is which connecting rod is
>>>> better
>>>> the earlier diaginal split one or the later horizonal spit one, and can I
>>>> use
>>>> the later 18V rods with these pistons. Thanks in advance. Lorne
>>>> Fritz
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