Peter,
Thanks for the link and the info. The bronze were all that TRF carries, so
I thought they would be an good choice. After reading the article I ordered
some original from Moss who sells both. The bronze are more expensive but
with the problems identified, I think I'll go back to original.
This is why I give my machinest the parts, but I install all myself.
Machine shops are not always engine rebuilders.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter C [mailto:peter@nosimport.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 9:53 AM
To: Peter Ryner; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] bronze valve guides
Pete,
This link http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?m=200705
is to a blog by Michael Salter of some renown in the Healey world. He
describes some instances to be wary of when using bronze guides. I,
and others, have had stuck valve experiences when the guides were not
properly sized. His information is spot on, IMHO.
Within the link, you'll need to page down a little past the
exhaust stuff. Well worth the read.
Hope it helps.
Peter C.
=====
At 07:05 AM 7/8/2008, Peter Ryner wrote:
>I just received the head for my early MGB engine back from the machine
shop.
>He installed new hardened valve seats and bronze valve guides. I'm a
little
>concerned about the clearances of the valves and guides. I can put the
>valves in and move them up and down, but some take more force than I would
>expect. On my past engines if I have the head on its side and install the
>valves, when I place the head down, the valves will fall with no help from
>me. With this head, the valves do not move and I have to push them down by
>hand before they will move.
>
>Is this common with the bronze guides or do I have a clearance issue?
>Thanks
>Pete
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