I think the key is trying to isolate the area of the brakes where the
symptom first appears or maybe some other sign. My 72B had a similar
problem where air was re-entering the system that I had a hell of a time
finding. But when re-bleeding the system several times, I noticed that
the bleeding of the passenger rear circuit was the one where the stream
picked up air and was a bit weaker ejecting brake fluid. I finally found
an extremely small pin hole on the metal line circling the rear axle -
small enough that there was a very minimal amount of brake fluid
seepage, just enough to mark the hole.
One test you can do is when you start having brake problems again, drive
over to the nearest dirt road (I live on one so its easy for me). Get
going maybe 10 mph or more then hit on the brakes enough to lock them up
and see from the read marks which brakes are working on which ones are
not or are weaker. With a 70B, dual master cylinder, you should still be
able to at least determine if its front or rear brakes. Master cylinder
problems would normally effect both rears, both fronts, or the entire
system. If its line problems, you can isolate the area this way.
David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu@autox.team.net
[mailto:mgs-bounces+dcouncill=msubillings.edu@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of James Schulte
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 7:07 AM
To: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] brakes
I've always had success bleeding brakes even on my MGC. But, my 70 B is
really giving me a tussle. I have braided lines in the front and a
simple
rubber line in the back. I've always used a peddle pusher whom would
press
on my command after I would open the screw then I would close it and
have
them release the peddle. It's always worked on the second or third bleed
after a test drive. But this time it just doesn't want to cooperate.
I've
replaced the MC with a new one from Moss. Has anyone had issues with
them?
Any blow by in the cylinder. Problem is, I don't see any leak, so how do
I
know?
I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere and the air bubbles in the lines go
away
with several pumps and releases. Only to come back after a test drive
and a
soft peddle upon braking on the road.
If it is a bad hose, how do I tell? Have the pusher depress with the
screw
closed? Will the rubber actually bulge? Would this cause air to get in
the
line if no leaks are apparent?
I have bled this system 5 times already with no success. I get a firm
peddle
after closing the screw and then go for a test drive and it goes back to
being soft. Help!
Jim Schulte
Aquatic Coordinator Souderton S.D.
Co-Secretary Philadelphia MG Club
Co-Coordinator MG 2008
Eastern HS WP Officials Scheduler
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