Don,
A year or so ago I started a similar thread about adhesives,
here's a copy of the text from my last response:
>Thanks to all of you who the responded to my question about adhesives vs.
>welding.
>It appears that there are at least two substantial products intended for this
>purpose, 3M5200 and a line known as Fusor (www.fusor.com). The combined
>knowledge
>of this list still amazes me.
>
I'd suggest checking these out.
Bud Krueger
52TD
Don Malling wrote:
> Hi Blair,
>
> Did you do the entire sill thing -- inner, middle and outer sills --
> or just the outers?
>
> If everything, I have a question, maybe a question for anyone who has
> done it.
>
> When I remove the old sills, I plan to support the body under the seat
> and floor area with wood and jack stands to distribute the load. Then
> weld in the new sills after getting everything lined up with the doors.
> The question is: when I lower the car back onto its wheels, is there
> any sag in the sills due to the load of the car. That is, when I line
> up the sills the doors and everything is jacked up and supported, can
> I assume it will be exactly the same when I remove the support or do
> I have to build in some "sag", and if so about how much?
>
> I guess I heard many new car fenders are glued on rather than welded.
> Seems like lots of joints a unibody could be considered structural --
> like the sills. I assume there must be places where you can't use this
> stuff in place of welding. Any other keywords or names for SEM so I
> can find more info on it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Don Malling
>
>
>
> Blair J. Weiss wrote:
>
>> David Wrote :
>>
>>
>>> Blair J. Weiss SEZ -
>>>
>>>
>>>> Bondo goes over bare metal, seam sealer goes over primer.
>>>
>>>
>>> The fellow doing the body work on my MGA tells me emphatically
>>> that you always apply body filler (don't know if it's Bondo
>>> brand he's using) over primer, then apply more primer over the
>>> filler. This is to prevent moisture from getting between the
>>> filler and the metal (since the filler is hygroscopic), causing
>>> rust and separation of the filler from the metal. This
>>> condition usually shows itself as little "pimples" under the
>>> paint which, if impacted, will cause a chunk of the filler
>>> underneath to break free from the body and leave a big hole in
>>> the paint.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Probably should be looking for a new body guy by now? The "Evercoat
>> Everglass waterproof short
>> strand fiberglass reinforced filler" aka Tiger Hair goes onto bare
>> metal. If
>> you were to put it over primer, you would be depending upon the adhesive
>> strength on the primer to the metal to keep the filler on the car.
>>
>> On top of the tiger hair, the next coat of "Bondo" should be a fine
>> light
>> weight variety.
>>
>> Seam sealer doesn't go on exterior panels, it is a rubbery compound for
>> covering over joints, like welds, or better panel adhesive. For what
>> it's
>> worth, I just finished a B and ended up using SEM adhesive to "glue"
>> the
>> floor pans in. I was a little skeptical about it, so I welded the
>> rockers...
>>
>> The stuff is amazing. Hit the metal with a 36 grit grinder, and lay a
>> 1/4"
>> bead around the lip where the floor sits. Take a "bondo" spreader and
>> smooth
>> it down, lay your panels into place, and sink about 12 tek screws
>> into each
>> floor... total time about 5 hours... oh and you still need to put seam
>> sealer over the panel adhesive.
>>
>> Blair
>
>
> /
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