What part of TO? I'm in the High Park area doing an A concours
restoration. It would help us to know a little about the previous
history incl compression numbers of your car, OTW no way of saying
if its a good bet to skip an engine overhaul (a thou in parts).
First get a Moss catalogue so that you can peg down panel and mech
actual costs. Your mechanic cannot estimate a brake budget without
first stripping all the components. If you have corrosion/pitting,
a new or rebored master cylinder alone is a few hundred.
Reconditioned head, rust repairs, sill replacement, prep and paint
and no facilities will add up. A late B driver can be had for less
than 10K CDN, so u gotta be careful.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation <budman@generation.net>
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: December 11, 2001 6:50 AM
Subject: Need some advice
> Hello gang,
>
> I am very new to the MGB world and I have a 1978 MGB. I am
limitted by a
> problem of no garage to work on, so I have my car stored at my
mechanic's
> yard and I have been doing work on it with him (and his
guidance).
>
> My problem is determining if I am going in the right
direction and if I
> am paying too much. Perhaps people here can comment.
>
> Here is a brief history of my car:
>
> Mechanically:
>
> Engine head cracked
> Needs new Clutch (including overhaul of clutch cylinder)
> Needs Brakes to be done including master cylinder
> Needs a carburator rebuild / overhaul
>
> Body wise:
>
> The rocker and sills (inside and out need to be replaced on both
sides
> The front quarter section for the front fenders on each side
need to be
> replaced
> on the driver's side in the rear, the quarter section on the
driver's side
> needs replacement, and the area over the wheel
>
> The floor is in okay shape, one little hole only( on each side).
The floor
> seams probably need to be reinforced. The floor is original.
This floor can
> be repaired versus being replaced. The weak spots are where the
undercoating
> missed.
>
> This car will never be in perfect (show room condition) shape. I
just want a
> working car that wil look nice, be presentable, and safe.
>
> Here is what I have done:
>
> I have remove the engine and transmission. The front fenders
have also been
> removed. All the interior stuff has been taken out (seats, etc).
>
> I cannot do any welding. My ideal situation would be to find
someone ot do
> the metal repair and welding, and then I would be able to
prepare the car
> for painting.
>
> I have spoken with my mechanic, and here is what he suggest
(with estimate
> of cost):
>
> Fix the mechanicals - clutch, brakes, carburator, head, etc -
parts would
> cost $500
>
> Total investment in this car to date is about $2000 CDN (1200
US).
> Another note - when the engine was removed (head taken off
first), there was
> a strong odor of burnt oil. Is this normal? Is it worth keeping
this engine?
> My mechanic believes that it is okay.
>
> My main problem is where to go on this thing. Is it worth
repairing? I
> estimate that body panels that need to preplaced will cost $1000
CDN
> (maximum). Then all I have to do is find someone for the metal
repair (eg do
> the welding)
>
> Feedback would be really apprecaited as I am wondering if my
mechainc is
> steering me along the right path.
>
> Thanks for your time.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mark Budman
> Toronto, Canada
> budman@generation.net
>
> PS - How does one set this list so you get all the messages as a
> digest/group instead of one at a time?
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