Let me tell you a story of my MGB purchase and then you can make a decision:
I bought a 1977 MGB. No rust appeared on the sills or the other parts of the
body. I was told it was the second owner and he had all the records, including
one for a rebuild. Oil pressure was 60# at 3000 rpm, no smoke, no clunk on the
test drive sounded great. I had the car inspected by a mechanic who said the
mechanicals were in good shape. Eureka -- the perfect car, the year I wanted in
the color I origianlly looked at!
So I plunked down the cash, paid the ticket, and started an odassey
that
hasn't ended yet.I found a body shop that was "willing" to strip and re-paint
the original color, install a new top and re-do the interior. Finding a body
shop that was willing to re-paint a MGB properly was nearly impossible. I went
to 7 different body shops. I wasn't willing to have Maaco do it and peel a few
weeks later as this was always my dream car. The shop agreed to charge a
resonable price to strip and paint. Since the engine appeared good-- I went for
it. First came the hidden bondo. That was repaired with a new welded piece
added
$200 to the agreed price. Nine months later, after screaming and yelling that I
could have carried the car to term, it was returned to me. She looks brand
spanking new and extemely pretty.
So I drove the car out of the shop, to have a new inspection sticker
affixed to the windshield, new also. (Why not since the car was stripped and it
was only a couple hundered bucks more?) This started a saga that to my horror
doesnt seem to end. I couldn't find insurance that covers collision and
replacement, except for collectors insurance -- and then I won't be allowed to
drive it as much as I want.
Next, the car wouldn't pass emissions! So I add another $300 for
repairs
to pass emissions. Without the sticker for the next two years I woouldn't ne
able to drive it at all. One hundred fifty miles later the car wont start. No
spark! So I go to the workshop manual, Hayes, Chilton ( another $100) and all
the tests. First it appears the coil is bad. Replace the coil. $34, test again
and the amplifier is replaced: $130. Still wont start. Next fully frustrated, I
call the local MG club for mechanic reccomendations; I have the car towed and
now am told to replace the whole electronic dizzy with points (How much I have
no idea.) In addition, I am told that there are other major engine repairs
necessary (As my I have visions of my retirement account depleting, I curse the
Previous Owner) Nevertheless, I would do it again: but beware of the
DAMN PREVIOUS OWNER! Now I know what DPO means.
On Mon, 10 May 1999, Matt Pringle <pringlmm@mcmaster.ca> wrote:
>Hi there.
>
>I'm trying to buy my first classic car and I'm looking for a B. I
>really like the chrome bumpered ones and I especially like the better
>horsepower in the pre-emmission years. I've read a few sources on
>looking the car over and I went and looked at my first one on the
>weekend. I wanted to buy it right there for the following reasons.
>
>72B
>
>Body and sills seemed solid (fresh paint though, I gave it a yellow
>flag)
>
>Oil pressure was 65 at 3000.
>
>No blue smoke.
>
>No clunking from the suspension.
>
>Top, tonneu, hardtop all in great shape.
>
>2 owners, repair records kept from day 1. An appraisal was made by an
>"expert" that details the car. Original engine. 103 000 original
>miles.
>
>$3000 US.
>
>I'm looking at another this week but I'm really tempted to go for this
>one. Is it too early? Should I look at a dozen? Is it too good to be
>true?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Matt
>
>
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