FWIW:
I've never had much luck bleeding the clutch on my MGA (or other cars with
hydraulic systems) using the pedal. I've no experience with an E-Z Bleed
type tool. What's always worked for me is to connect a large syringe to the
bleed fitting with a short length of rubber hose and use suction to pull
fluid/air out until bled.
Eric
Bridgewater, MA
Copied & edited:
>From: John Trindle
>Subject: Re: Clutch, 73 MGB, argh!
>
>First off, I'd like to thank *everybody* for their very helpful
suggestions.
<snip>
>The reason I keep leaning toward air in the lines is the variable nature
>of the problem... and the fact that it recovers on its own. The
>possibility that the hose is bad is enticing, as it would explain things
>and be cheap to replace. However, it was installed about 1 year before
>the car was parked, so it shouldn't be too bad.
>
>The pressure on the Ezi-Bleed was cranked up pretty high (I thought you
>used 30 psi or less, he was using 60+). I wonder if all that pressure
>could have shoved the bubble off to one side (and made it smaller) so it
>didn't completely bleed. Or, emulsified the hydraulic fluid with
>teeny-tiny bubbles. We were using silicone brake fluid, the first time I
>ever saw it, and I couldn't tell if it was excessively cloudy or not.
>
>Well, given that I don't have any money left, I'm thinking of trying these
>things:
>1) new clevis bolt and slave cylinder fork if available, otherwise slave
>cylinder.
>2) new hose.
>3) bleeding it some more, the old fashioned way.
>4) A tranquilizer dart gun for use on my mentor. If we have to take out
>the engine to replace the release bearing and pilot bushing, I'm going to
>need it.
>
>OK, now you can start yelling about me being my own DPO.
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