O-rings work very well and are supplied as standard in the carb. rebuild
kits sold by Moss. Be sure to use two of them in each location where one
cork seal was originally fitted. (We can supply the o-rings if you don't
need a whole kit.) Two other things also cause the leak you describe,
however:
After years of use, the hole in lower jet bearing through which the jet
passes can wear oval, causing a poor fit of the seal (either cork or
o-ring). Replace the jet bearing to fix this problem.
The other problem is that the yoke at the end of the jet itself becomes
loose. It is held into the jet by a square-headed threaded fastener which
allows fuel to seep past its threads when it gets loose. The way to tighten
a loose yoke is to pull the jet out, push a small Philips-head screwdriver
(or similar bar) through the hole halfway along the jet barrel, then twist
the yoke in a clockwise direction with a pair of pliers or something
similar until it is completely tight. Note: after doing this, you may need
to file the area adjacent to the hole where you put the bar; the brass is
soft and the torque sometimes raises a bump which will prevent you pushing
the jet back through the seals.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
----------
> From: A. B. Bonds <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Drip, drip...carb jet leaks
> Date: Monday, September 22, 1997 6:52 AM
>
> Surely in the last 30 years someone has come up with something better
> than cork, or whatever that squashed moose-dung stuff is that is used
> for seals on the SU carb jets. Now that the TD is back on the road
> after a hiatus of a few months, the carb jets are dripping like crazy.
> Since the garage is underneath my living room, this makes for a most
> salubrious smell after it is parked for a few hours. Has anyone tried
> o-rings?
> A. B. Bonds
|