Jeff, Before doing anything, Replace the main power relay on the right front
fender well. Theres two located there, so you can just swap the two, being
careful to keep the wires straight. The reason I suggest this is my 80B
refused to turn off one day and it was the relay. Maybe yours is going bad
with a different signature. I dont recommend adding diodes to fix this
problem, instead try and find the problem, not mask it. Richard
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REPLY FROM: White, Richard H.
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<111106-2>; Sat, 7 Oct 1995 16:59:21 -0700
SAA28930 for mgs-outgoing; Sat, 7 Oct 1995 18:46:36 -0400
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 15:45:49 -0700
From: Jeffrey Taberski <taberski@uidaho.edu>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Wierd ignition problem (Won't shut off)
Message-ID: <Pine.HPP.3.91.951007153927.13928A-100000@goshawk.csrv.uidaho.edu>
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Reply-To: Jeffrey Taberski <taberski@uidaho.edu>
Get this:
When the ignition light is on at idle, indicating (presumably) that the
alternator is not charging, the car will shut off normally with the key.
BUT...when the ignition light is OFF, the car will not shut off when the
key is shut off. I had replaced the internal regulator when I got the
car since it did not charge at all, but the ignition light still flickers
at about 1000-1500 RPM's. Also, the headlights and dash lights flicker
at night.
BTW, it is a '77 B.
I looked at the wiring diagram and see no diodes in the circuit. The
only thing I can think of is a bad diode in the alternator causing a
feedback through the ignition light circuit and thus the ignition. Can
I just put a diode in line with the ignition circuit? Will I lose the
function of the ignition light if I do this?
Any thoughts are appreciated. I am about to order a alternator diode set,
but would like other suggestions before jumping to this conclusion.
Thanks,
-Jeff
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