Rick-
To answer some of your questions- first I should say that I am not an
expert, but I have 2 V8 conversions, a 74 1/2 GT & a 77 roadster. I
have logged over 275,000 miles on these cars as my only transportation.
While this may not be as manny miles as Glen, I doubt many others can
match this.
I make this preamble to comment on brakes. The stock MG brakes in good
order are first class and more than adequate for normal driving &
limited performance use. My good friend Tim Mountjoy won 3 straight E
production regional titles, 3rd at Road Atlanta, beating the Porches by
out braking them, all with stock brakes & high performance pads & shoes.
He did my first conversion, and did not recommend changing the brakes.
This said, all of us would be safer with the best brakes obtainable, air
bags, roll cage, etc. It comes down to where you want to spend your
money. Glen uses stock brakes pulling his mega-ton trailer zillions of
miles, but uses the best pads & shoes for street use. NEVER use racing
shoes or pads on the street. They only work after they get hot, and will
barely stop you when cold.
After running both my rubber bumper cars several thousand miles, both
have been lowered to chrome bumper height, or slightly lower, both have
M&G international front & rear sway bars. Handling is much better than
even a chrome bumper car, probably because of the stiffer rubber bumper
springs. Comfort does not have to be sacrificed. I'll put the ride of my
GT up against any B out there. The roadster is a different story, but it
will kill a Porche in an autocross, was beaten only by a solo 1 driver
in a barely streetable V8.
I converted my 1974-1/2 GT to chrome bumpers because the roadster had
rubber bumpers, & I wanted something totally different. Chrome bumpers
look stupid unless you lower the car. Make that decision first. The
conversion requires (re)painting.
If you are planning on a new paint job, its not a big deal. You will
need to find a parts car for the lower part of the front fenders, front
valance, and the section under the rear taillights. All of this must be
welded onto your car. Of course, if you are replacing your front fenders
anyway, just buy the chrome bumper version.
The best way I found to do the front bumpers was to cut the frame
extensions off a parts car & have them welded on my car. In the process,
I cut the added section off the frame of my car that supports the rubber
bumpers. If this is too much work, cut the ends off your frame
extensions behind the front valance & drill & tap the outside of the
frame rails to bolt on the bumper brtackets. The cut ends should be
welded closed. You will need the bumper bar & back support for both
front & rear from your parts car. Buy new chrome pieces if it's in the
budget, but use the old ones for fitting, assuming they are straight.
Glen Towery has the best idea for the rear bumper. Cut 2 plates of 1/4"
steel to match the bumper mounting pads on the rear of your car, making
them long enough to cover the area where the chrome bumper mounting iron
should pass through the body. Drill holes in the plates to match the
holes in the mounting pad, drill through the plate & body where the
bumper iron should pass. Use a bolt of 1/2" diameter, fender washer
behind the rear valance, & 5/8- 3/4" pipe or tube as a spacer, & bolt
your bumper up. When finished, you will have to crawl under the car to
see that it isn't "factory".
If money was no object, I would buy the RV8 complete front end from the
MG Owners Club. This includes uprated brakes & coil-over suspension with
ball joints all mounted on a new front crossmember. 4 bolts & some brake
lines to install. $3500.00 plus shipping.
Just my thoughts, other opinions may vary. Ian Pender is another long
distance driver. I believe Eightup is lowered, converted to chrome
bumpers, & has stock brakes.
Spurious, where are you ?
Jim
I'd rather have a V8
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